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I have a Beko DSC64S purchased in 2014.
The timer programs (10/20/40/60 mins) are all we normally use but they have started running cold – putting out zero heat. A plug-in wattage meter shows energy consumption at ~200W so seems to confirm that the heater is not running for these programs.
We tried the sensor programs (cupboard dry etc.) which do provide heat but they only run for ~5 mins then stop (I assume the sensor thinks dryness has been reached). Wattage meter shows energy consumption around 1200W regardless of whether we select cottons or synthetics so it only seems to be running at low heat.
I initially assumed the heater was at fault due to the timer programs running cold, so replaced the heater. It made no difference.
I have given everything (filter, condenser, humidity sensor) a good clean. I also removed and replaced the humidity sensor, thinking that it might be full of lint inside (from a YouTube video about a different Beko model!) but it was actually OK. The sensor did have lint filling the small square recesses at the front, which I cleaned out. But all this didn’t make any difference.
Any ideas what the problem might be here? I can’t see a consistent pattern to it so I’m wondering if it’s a PCB problem. Is there any way to diagnose that?
Would greatly appreciate any help you can give!
since the timed programmes often use half heat it sounds like one of the elements is not being energised
Dave
Yes these timed programmes are meant to use low heat.
It seems strange that other low heat programmes (e.g. delicates, synthetics) are still putting heat out so it’s not just a simple case of the high heat programmes running low and the low heat programmes running cold.
Not sure where to go with this!
Yes, any idea why? The heater has been replaced – it is brand new. The heater that it replaced was doing the same thing.
but if the relay on the board is not turning it on it wont work
it is a long shot because some low heat programmes work but can think of nothing else but a board problem
that is unless you have a one in a thousand faulty element
Dave
I have removed the board and there are no visual clues or smells that might indicate a fault. I have a basic multimeter but not sure what to test on the board. I don’t really want to mess around replacing individual board components but would like to somehow verify if the problem is with the board before buying a new one. I appreciate your help!
carefully check the relays and solder joints too them
find connections to heater and check you have both elements back to the board
tap the heater relays firmly with a screw driver. its a mechanical device and they can stick
Dave
Thanks Dave.
One of the solder joints to a relay labelled RL4 looks burnt and the same place on the other side of the board has a faint brown mark. Quite hard to see but definitely there so I guess this relay has burned out. From there, the solder track leads to a connector with large spade terminals unlike any of the other connectors on the board, so I think it’s fair to assume this leads to the heater. I struggled to trace the wires back as they are bundled up and inside plastic trunking in various places.
I’m feeling pretty confident that this is the problem. The question now is do I replace the relay or the whole board…
Andy
Yeah, I’m just trying to keep within my competence to do the job! My soldering tools and skills aren’t the best but the holes look well spaced so I’m going to give it a shot. Thanks for all your help.
I replaced the relay yesterday and the tumble dryer is working again!
It turns out that the low-heat synthetics etc. programs actually start on high heat which explains why those programs were still providing heat. The timer programs run low throughout, so they were completely cold.
Thanks again for your help.
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