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Have had problems with the door sometimes not opening and then it not filling very much and now getting error F3 (drain error).
I’ve checked that the mains water inlet isn’t blocked and that I can easily blow down the pressure tube so not a blockage at the base – also see the water level and no muck is evident.
I think i need to replace the pressure switch (but there are two fitted on this model)
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/8061664-washing-machine-pressure-switch
When I put a continuity meter over the terminals the two outer points register about 14k ohm that don’t vary when I gently suck/blow down the tube to get a click. The other terminals are high resistivity. I wanted to double check – can this new style module be checked in this way? (btw there is a branch in the tubing to an old fashioned round analog unit).
This post suggested that the new style is the more important one https://www.washerhelp.co.uk/forums/topic/2932-ise10-1606w-pressure-switch-question/Thanks
DavidMorning Don, to be perfectly truthful I never had a single pressure switch problem on any ISE. It’s also true to say that pressure switch faults are not common on most makes of appliances in general. Blowing into the digital pressure switch is to be avoided and it is not advisable. Pressure hose blockages or tiny holes in the pressure hoses are the main cause of 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of fill/drain errors. Small water leaks onto the thermistor on the side of the drum did give the occasional but very rare spurious error messages. Going out shortly but will fire up my main PC this afternoon and peruse what tech info I still have.:)
Looking at the tech the analogue pressure switch is used for doorlock, heater and overfill/drain controls. The digital sensor is used to control the various levels.
From years of experience with all types of appliances, analogue pressure switches that carry a heater load can after many years of use suffer from burning or sticking contacts. If it is a pressure switch failure I would suspect the analogue switch before the digital one.
The original part number for the analogue switch is 8078221Thanks for that [USER=”3176″]iadom[/USER] – really useful. After reconnecting the tubing it was overfilling (half way up the tub). I then spotted that one of the three traces (under the cover) on the pressure sensor had come adrift which my son re-soldered. Now it fills to the right level but doesn’t open the door at the end of the cycle (which was an intermittent fault before)
So it looks like the analogue level switch?? (issues with overfilling and door lock) However….
Do you have the repair manual / wiring diagram since when I removed the wiring connectors on the level switch I was alarmed to see that the two single connectors were indistinguishable and I now worry I might have connected them the wrong way around. Always take a photograph before doing anything! As per the link above I have definitely connected on the right pins (bottom pin unused). I could then trace to where it connects onto the control panel.
Thanks
DavidSend me a PM with your email address and I will send you some info.;)
Just remembered, all these ISE machines came with a full schematic wiring diagram slotted under the pipe work or wiring on top of the dispenser drawer, has yours gone missing?
I sent a PM, thanks
I found the schematic and my concern is whether I have cross wired N12 and N16 – looks like I will need to get access to the control board socket 4 to double check. Or should I just replace the analog pressure sensor and try that? (something was broken before I opened the washer!). Also the drain pump came on for a short time 10 minutes after a rinse cycle with the door open! But it did do a ?cold wash with ok levels on the rinse cycles – looked a bit low on the washing powder stage. And the door didn’t release automatically at the end.
Thanks
DavidWill sort out some tech info tomorrow, it’s all on my main PC which is off atm. Actually finding a pressure switch at all or at a reasonable price may not be easy.
Sorry for the huge delay in replying and thanks for the info you sent – the washing machine was mostly working (but often not opening the door at the end of the cycle). The test programme completed ok a few months ago.
Unfortunately it has now gotten worse and refuses to spin and shows F3 (and F1 with the door open).
I completely removed the drain hose and rodded it and jetted it out in the garden – now clean as a whistle. And checked carefully in the drain pump housing for any objects
I also disconnected the level tube from the sump gasket and cleaned out – it had some gunge at the base but wasn’t that bad. Resealed with a jubilee clip.
The test programme now fails ‘Fault during draining’ after the wash 20 minute leak test (so L4 and L6 illuminate) but the drain pump strongly discharged lots of water into an open sink (for testing) – so I assume it doesn’t think it has got to P1 level (empty) – so back to the level issue. However I did notice that it DID achieve two levels in the test programme – just to the base of the drum (P2) and some way up the glass (P6).
So since it passed the leak test (is this for air rather than water?) and achieved the two levels it looks like the pressure sensor is working?
I got 0.58v for the pressure sensor between pins 1 and 2 (counting from the back of the washer) and 0.07V between pins 1 and 3 whilst running the drain cycle which looks about right as per the manual.
And if I run a normal drain cycle it fails with F3.
However if I open the door and turn on the machine it starts the drain pump and shows F1
I am now wondering if it is the level switch instead (related to door level and overfilling). NB I managed to check that the level switch connector blocks are definitely the right way round (noticed one has a few lugs that prevents it being installed in the wrong terminal)
Any more ideas?
Thanks again
David
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