Washer/Drier – Should I replace the main board next?

Home Forums Public Support Forums Help And Support Washing Machine Help Forum Washer/Drier – Should I replace the main board next?

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #101998
    Jay123
    Participant

    Hi everyone,

    Washer/Drier is an Ultima WDD960 UK.

    Leading up to the main problem:

    • Washer failed to (fast) spin or drain.
    • Clothes were sat in shallow puddle in the drum, LCD screen was off.
    • It worked when I turned it back on and ran a spin cycle.

  • Started a wash cycle and washer repeatedly clicked door lock until F06 was shown on screen.
  • Persisted after being powered off for a few minutes.
  • Resolved after I used the pull tab to get my washing out of the machine.
  • Cycle time remaining hasn’t been very accurate (but not miles off) for a while now.

    The main problem – Any cycle will run for (roughly) 5 minutes, until F13 is displayed on the screen.

  • Troubleshooting so far:

    • Any wash cycle leaves water in the drum (with F13 error).
    • The drum fills and rotates but does not pump out.

  • Any pump-out cycle sits in silence until F13 is shown on screen.
  • I made sure the filter isn’t blocked and that the impeller turns freely
  • I checked the outlet hose isn’t blocked, nor the piping it drains into.
  • I removed the pump and confirmed continuity across the terminals
  • I made sure the tube between the drum and water pump is not blocked.
  • I took a punt and installed a brand new thermistor, as this is what the F13 error points to.
  • The machine ran one, full, 90c cycle
  • Then returned to the same F13 symptom and hasn’t relented since
  • Any drying cycle does not trigger the element to heat up, or fan to spin, before the F13 error.
  • Heating element has 44.7 Ohms resistance (1200w 230v stamped on element) and is beginning to rust
  • Fan has 47.9 Ohms resistance. No visible obstructions and turns freely
  • I don’t know whether the resistance on the fan is acceptable
  • Honestly, I’m not sure what to do with the information I have gathered so far. My best guess is that it’s the ~£200 control board, but I don’t want to take a punt on that without running it by some other opinions.

    What do you think? I’m grateful for any and all opinions on what to do next. Machine is still in bits for easy testing.

#487020
electrofix
Moderator

F13 I think is the dryer thermistor, did you change this one

on some washer dryers failure of the dryer thermistor stops the pump working properly

Dave

#487021
Jay123
Participant

Hi Dave – Yep! It was the dryer thermistor I replaced with a new and genuine part. It worked for one wash cycle then went back to F13 when I run any subsequent cycles.

Is there a way to confirm the new thermistor isn’t defective?

#487022
electrofix
Moderator

also check the wiring to the thermistor has not got a break in it

as for replacing the board, most hotpoint boards have to be programmed after installation

Dave

#487023
Jay123
Participant

So I had another look at it this evening; couldn’t find any damage to the cables.

Are there any other multimeter checks that might help me narrow this down?

Will Hotpoint tell me how to program it? I couldn’t find instructions when I Googled…

#487024
electrofix
Moderator

you need to check the thermistor from the board connection to make sure there are no cable breaks

if it is broken it tends to break on the clips as the cable goes from the drum to the casing

and yes you can buy the board plus you will need to buy a programmer plus you will need to buy the correct software

Dave

#487025
Jay123
Participant

So I went back and really tried to find a problem with the cables. I took some pictures as they run through the machine and this one was by far the most notable:

https://ibb.co/Z88H7FN

The discolouration is very obvious under direct LED light, and none of the other connector cables have discoloured in this way…

Does this look normal or shall I try and replace the connector cable?

#487026
electrofix
Moderator

if the cable is going to break its right on the wiring clip check this carefully

discolouration is from the heat of the dryer

if you want to be certain trace the cable back to the board and you should be able to read the ntc from there

Dave

#487027
Jay123
Participant

So I spent more time on it this evening. There’s a slight pinch from that clip, but nothing that looks like it would cause a problem.

I read the NTC from the control board end of the cables and couldn’t find a problem there either.

Could the F13 error be misleading?​​​​​​

#487028
andyjawa
Participant

I think, and this is a gut feeling (which could be well wrong) that IF the wiring is ok and IF the actual dryer element or wash element are NOT to earth that it would be a pcb fault. Which of the two different elements is your machine fitted with: 1 was a spiral, part number C00080765 and the latter type wasn`t spiral, part number C00268319? Rust deposit on the element, in itself, does not prove it is duff but a matt coloured or rusty swelling or/and a longitudinal split does. = you would also still get a meter reading – element tag to tag but you would to varing degrees also get an earth reading = tag to an earth point e.g. the aluminium alloy heater container so maybe test for that too by putting what meter you have on highest ohms reading and see if the needle or display actually picks something up – you would need a 500 volt producing dc megger rather than an ordinary test meter but you might get lucky wioth whatever you have to prove the point. Testing the machine with the heater wires removed and taped to insulate will just throw up another error code. There was years ago a new version of the thermistor you recently bought = part number C00290251 because the original gave grief but they do look very slightly different when compared to each other.
So as a rough guess, all that above being well, I think it is probably a switching relay on the pcboard. What, if you are lucky, are looking for is a duff relay leg soldering joint which would be obvious and with a soldering iron/ solder DIY fixable. BUT if unlucky it could be anything on the board such are the evils and joys of electronics.Take a photo befor moving off any wiring connectors.
PCB changing for customers and trade bods without the manufacturers tools. As someone touched on already you would have to buy at great expense a new pcb. You would also have to buy a smart card and a smart card reader The pcb is based on your exact model and its industrial and serial code too so cannot tell you how much if you went down that route but = lots. The smart arse card is about 25 quid and the card reader about 190 quid ! i.e. they have customers caught by the short ones when out of the X number of years free parts warranty early stuff 5 years latter stuff 10 years.

#487029
Jay123
Participant

Hi Andy

It’s the second type of heating element (C00268319) and is still out of the machine. There’s surface rust, but no splitting, swelling or peeling. It looks like the early stages of rust.

Soldering is outside of my comfort zone for this. I would be concerned that I could inadvertently create a fire hazard.

Going into this, I had absolutely no idea that this is a 14 year old machine (it’s in such immaculate condition and was still working flawlessly).

​​​​​​I’m going to accept that it’s dead and replace it with another Indesit/Hotpoint.

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.