Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Washing Machine Help Forum › Whirlpool AWZ612 Washer/Dryer displays code E13
- This topic has 8 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 9 months ago by
Mike Martin.
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June 28, 2023 at 11:32 am #102049
Mike Martin
ParticipantTurn the machine on. Set the the program dial to any cycle (wash, spin, tumble dry, and you see the display show 7:14 then beep 4 times and then display code E13. I have replaced the door lock and checked the wires/connections between the door lock and the control board. Any suggestions ? TIA, Mike
June 28, 2023 at 7:17 pm #487356andyjawa
ParticipantHi. This model is really a rebadged Smeg (but you can get it under other labelled brands to add to the fun / confusion!).
I had this problem once (ages ago on a customers machine) and yes all the info (not much) points to the door lock except when it isn`t that!.If you look up any parts there are various versions of your model so it is based on the model you gave AND the long number beginning with 85.Turn power off, pull the machine out, remove the top. The aluminium dryer heater “box” ( called the manifold) is the part you are looking for and it`ll be smack in front of you running front to back more or less the depth of the machine. The heater wires are at the back of this box. BEFORE you do anything else take a photo or / and draw out which wires go where, then pull all the 3 or 4 wires off the heaters` terminals and isolate the tags as need be with tape.
Refit the lid for safty reasons rehook-up any pipe work you may or may have had to disconnect to pull the thing out and and then try the machine on a normal wash programme to see if it completes the whole cycle wash / rinses/ spin.Pitfalls (if I`m on the right track here). This bit is from memory only: the cause of the problem is the dryer heater is going to earth which messes with the electronics and manifests itself as E13 which leads, as one would expect, to buying a new lock which does not cure the problem or various web sites indicating that the very expensive pcb has jacked when it hasn`t so to make it a washer and dryer again you have to buy a new heater but before buying that:
The main problem here is that there is a steel screw you have to remove once u have the lid part off the manifold box in order to get the heater out – that screw will probably be seized solid due to alumimum corrosion and heat So before buying anything see if that screw comes out first if it doesn`t do not whack with an impact screw driver as the alluminum is liable to crack. All parts on these things are expensive and some, actually a fair number, will be obsolete especially anything useful!!
Also I seem to remember that there was some sort of wiring modification from a 4 wire to a 3 wire to the heater because the original one went obsolete…. could well be wrong there so the important thing is to match your old element up to a sellers photo ad to make sure they are the same because you might not get an instruction sheet. That is why you also note which wires go where before you pull the wires off.
Try this sites spares dept for a match or any further info on the part.
.June 28, 2023 at 7:40 pm #487357andyjawa
Participantsee this part for picture from this sites spares dept
806890802June 28, 2023 at 8:55 pm #487358electrofix
Moderatorhttps://whirlpoolservice.co.uk/washi…ir/error-codes
well according to this it could be the dryer sensor
worth checking
Dave
June 29, 2023 at 1:36 pm #487359Mike Martin
Participanthi andyjawa & electrofix,
Thank you so much for your prompt response to my query. I had the top cover off of the heating element just to have a look to see if I could spot any corrosion. I didn’t bother to buzz the terminals to check for a short or high resistance… stupid of me.. There is a thermostat attached to the side of the housing. I will get the machine out and check some time over the next few days. Trouble is… Its a fairly old machine now & i’m not sure if its worth spending more money on it… Still; I would like to identify the fault before making a decision.Also, I’ve read a couple of posts on here talking about the poor quality of new machines which I suppose is no different to trends in other manufactured goods. Are there any reasonably priced brands/models of washer-dryers you think are worth considering. I fully understand that you will not make recommendations – just looking for your experience with the relative quality of brands/models of washer-dryers.
Thank you,
MikeJune 29, 2023 at 1:37 pm #487360Mike Martin
ParticipantAlso, I put the fault into chatGPT and the response mentioned the heating element…. !
June 29, 2023 at 5:09 pm #487361electrofix
Moderatorwell cant help doing a complete check
check wash heater, motor brushes. dryer heater. then go onto thermisors
all can be done with a multi meter
Dave
July 1, 2023 at 5:29 pm #487362Mike Martin
ParticipantSat 01Jul23 – Follow up on fault-finding suggestions made by andyjawa & electrofix,
As suggested, I removed the top panel of the machine and located the dryer heating element housing (aluminium enclosure) I removed the top of the housing and labelled each of the 4 poles (1-4). I then disconnected the wires in turn from the terminals of each of the element poles and labelled each wire corresponding to the number on the pole ( for ease of re-connect ) when necessary. Each disconnected wire has a terminal housed in a plastic shroud but I covered each terminal with insulating tape and labelled appropriately to remove the risk of a live terminal shorting against an adjacent metal object.
I put the heating element top cover back in place and secured with screws.I turned the machine on and selected a wash program……… Success !! no beeps and no E 14 code. The wash programme started.
Faulty heating element identified. spares replacement part code: 806890802
Thanks to andyjawa & electrofix for your assistance.
I hope this thread helps someone else with a whirlpool or smeg washer dryer displaying error code E 14.
July 7, 2023 at 1:23 pm #487363andyjawa
ParticipantGreat! Watch the screw that I mentioned though but you can get around that by a bit of jiggery pokery with the original anchor spring thus avoiding undoing that screw which does not want to play ball. Can`t remember at all what I did at the time and if the heater wires have to be modified I can`t remember that either.
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