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Anyone offer any pointers towards the fault.
The machine stops – all top row of lights flash in sync and the door lock light remains on (although the door opens). I’ve narrowed it down to happening during/at the end of the spin cycle. Seems to happen on all programmes except ?wool? .
Checked front filter – clean.
Checked drain hose – clear
Changed drain – discharged directly into a sink.The machine is old but rarely and only lightly used.
whats important is not the flashing lights its the ones that arn’t
look at wash indicator lights and tell me which are on and which are not
Dave
Many thanks.
Any service manuals and schematics floating about? I’m more than comfortable with pcb level repair but I’d be happier knowing how to best to strip it down.
Found a youtube and my glasses – Dismantled.
The main triac appears to be a btb10-800bw https://www.mouser.co.uk/datasheet/2/389/btb10-1156229.pdf
The triac reads fine, or at least what I think would be fine.
T1 – T2 = 1.95 megaohms
T1 – Gate = 74 ohms
T2 – Gate = 1.95 megaohmsSimilar results for the other one on the pcb. I can’t see anything else obvious on the board, there’s a little smutz around RV004 but nothing appears to be shorted. I’ll check the motor in a bit – the machine is in the worlds smallest utility room and there’s not a lot of space to work.
when you measured the traic make sure you reverse the leads in case the leak is one way only
this fault could be a stupid as too much carbon dust on the brush holders causing slight earth leak
Dave
Triac was close enough to the same with the polarity reversed.
7 Wires to the motor connector 2 red , 5 black. Only 6 connections on the motor itself.
1 and 2 – Red appears to be the taco – static they’re at 66Ohms and rise when the drum is turned.
3 and 5 – Inner winding – 2.5 Ohms
6 and 7 – Outer winding – 4.5 OhmsAll are OL to the ground post and 3/5 are OL to 6/7. Which I think is all correct or at least makes sense.
Any way to check the brushes / holders without access under the machine? Lifting or even tilting it is going to be a huge problem.
the only difference is your measuring insulation resistance with 9v dc but the machine operates at 230v
the only way of being certain it to use a high voltage tester or you could remove the brushes and dust off the carbon dust
think one of the things i would do now is lift either t1 or t2 triac leg so you can see if its the triac giving the reading or the board
Dave
I reassembled yesterday to do the weekend wash and I’ve had 3 loads on different programmes so far without any problems. Corrosion I’ve cleared, stuck relay, dry solder joint, carbon build up – not sure, but it’s going to be really difficult to track down an intermittent fault If it happens again I think I’ll start by reflowing the triac the soldering on the PCB in general was very poor and I’m assuming it was lead-free.
Well that didn’t last very long – the machine has started doing it again but not every cycle. It might be me but it does feel like it’s happens more on the heavier loads.
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