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Hi all,
I moved overseas with a Kenwood washer dryer K10W7D18. Should have gone with a Beko or brand that was globally known!
Well the drum bearings are shot and I am desperately trying to find the bearing code for this model.Can get generic ones here like 6206ZZ/6306-2RZ etc.
Kenwood UK have been completely unhelpful trying to sell me with entire tub assembly! I live 9000 miles away.
The machine is still in daily use (although sounds like a jet engine!)
I’d like to try and source the bearings and seal before dismantling it because of its use in our household.Can anyone point me in the right direction or know of the bearings I need for this model K10W7D18? (10kg washer dryer)
Many thanksbad news you have a chinese manufactured machine made by Midea. little or no information.
parts listed by one of my suppliers only list a tub rear halfif you continue using it you run the risk of damaging the spider which would need a complete inner drum raplacement as well
you will have to bite the bullet, The bearing should pose no problem as they will be a standard size, the water seal may be a standard size but you wont know till you split it. depending on the type of seal there is often a brass ring on the drum spider to allow the water seal to work. if this is scored it would leak and cause bearings to fail again
Daveelectrofix wrote: bad news you have a chinese manufactured machine made by Midea. little or no information.
parts listed by one of my suppliers only list a tub rear halfif you continue using it you run the risk of damaging the spider which would need a complete inner drum raplacement as well
you will have to bite the bullet, The bearing should pose no problem as they will be a standard size, the water seal may be a standard size but you wont know till you split it. depending on the type of seal there is often a brass ring on the drum spider to allow the water seal to work. if this is scored it would leak and cause bearings to fail again
Daveohh not good news! Hope the spider is not damaged then – been ages running like this.
I’ll need to tear it apart as soon as possible then to see what bearing I need by the looks of it. Been searching online for cross references – nothing!
At least here in Uruguay there are loads of bearings/spiders available as here they are masters of fixing things – they don’t tend to throw things out like developed countries.
Just looking at this video showing the movement – I can feel a couple of mm of movement – possibility the spider is damaged. Fingers crossed it’s not
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvEUIzaNaHo&t=1sThanks
well hopefully the play is in the bearing itself. If the bearing is loose on the shaft then your in trouble
Dave
Hi to Uruguay and S. America. Think, but I`m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure, that the oil seal is going to be a 47x88x10/12. As for the bearings no idea you`ll have to visually look as it will written on them…so something like 6307zz or 6207zz (zz = metal discs protection of the internal ball bearings or 2rs = rubber protection). With a high load capacity machine you really want to lash out on some quality bearing brands, NSK or FAG or Japanese made bearings rather than 4 quid Chinese stuff which are ok at 6kg loads but not at 10kg loads in my opinion. You really want to nip the problem in the bud otherwise as electrofix says you can nuke the drum shaft and the hub silver running ring (that is a drum complete and probably a long wait and not cheap). Make sure you lubricate the new oil seal see “Logik drum bearing change” on this very site for a rough practical guide. The main problem might be unscrewing the pulley bolt.
Got it apart!! Was a pain because of the dryer component
6306-2RZ
6307-2RZ
seal – 47,88,10/12NBR bearings any good? Or toyo/koyo?
bad news you have a chinese manufactured machine made by Midea. little or no information.
parts listed by one of my suppliers only list a tub rear half – loads of parts for Midea just look them up as logik, workshop manual often listed on partmaster.“Bearings out. The inner needed soaking in wd 40 a little.
Visible water damage with rusted ball bearings! Only on the inner Bearing. Outer looked and felt perfect.
Looks like water damage and wore down.
Shaft looks good luckily.
We’ll see once I get the new bearings in”.Yes, typically the way they all fail not because the bearings are mechanically naffly made but due to the obvious: water gets through the oil seal /shaft as the seal running face/lip gets worn 9 out of 10 due to no grease so the running lip gets friction worn prematurely – Kenwood is not alone so make sure you do grease is good advise.
NSK, KOYO and NBR take your pick as all 3 are ok and the last 2 are Japanese, NSK`s head office is in Japan too presume made there..
If the spider`s oil seal hub needs cleaning DO NOT USE EMERY CLOTH OR SANDPAPER just use a soft damp cloth with Jiff and dry it off before applying a bit of grease there as well as the actual oil seal.andyjawa wrote:“Bearings out. The inner needed soaking in wd 40 a little.
Visible water damage with rusted ball bearings! Only on the inner Bearing. Outer looked and felt perfect.
Looks like water damage and wore down.
Shaft looks good luckily.
We’ll see once I get the new bearings in”.Yes, typically the way they all fail not because the bearings are mechanically naffly made but due to the obvious: water gets through the oil seal /shaft as the seal running face/lip gets worn 9 out of 10 due to no grease so the running lip gets friction worn prematurely – Kenwood is not alone so make sure you do grease is good advise.
NSK, KOYO and NBR take your pick as all 3 are ok and the last 2 are Japanese, NSK`s head office is in Japan too presume made there..
If the spider`s oil seal hub needs cleaning DO NOT USE EMERY CLOTH OR SANDPAPER just use a soft damp cloth with Jiff and dry it off before applying a bit of grease there as well as the actual oil seal.Thanks! In contact with a supplier who has the koyo kit locally luckily!
Yes I just cleaned thee shaft with a microfibre cloth and wd40! Will apply grease beforehand.Keeping the old bearings were very useful to hammer the new ones in without damaging the surface of the new ones for sure. Part of the process I was worried about.
But all went smoothlyWell looks like a success so that is great news.
All academic now `cause you fixed it, but you would have noticed that if the front bearing was to get thrashed into total trash (shrapnel mode!) that outer race is near impossible to knock out due to there not being anything exposed to whack against to knock the blighter out. A bit of a poor design but no different to many thousands of models of any makes out there, that is why, like you did, is to nip it in the bud ASAP before all that happens. Oh and thanks for tell us the bearing sizes and confirming the oil seal size; another piece of info to add to the list.
Cheers!“bad news you have a chinese manufactured machine made by Midea. little or no information.
parts listed by one of my suppliers only list a tub rear half” – I wrote: “loads of parts for Midea just look them up as logik, workshop manual often listed on partmaster.”
My correction to Electrofix seems that he is now spot on. At one time, not long ago, most logiks had a Service manual listed on Partmaster. Whilst one or two I have now looked for are still listed but most, it would seem, have now disappeared off their website. This was obviously an oversight by Partmaster as that was all useful and therefore that is why the vast majority have now disappeared!Ohh yeahh. Really pleased with myself.
All assembled and first test done at 1200 rpm (1600 is max).
Just a 15min rinse and spin.No leaks and smooth as silk.
Water pump is loud in comparison! Can I get a silent water pump? LolSaved myself 1000 usd! Minus the 30 usd for bearing and seal kit
Let’s hope I get several years out of the better quality bearings.
Great stuff, well done.
“Water pump is loud in comparison! Can I get a silent water pump?” No silent because chugging of the water within the pump on empty OR if not that possible bearing in the pump – test for up and down movement “Side play” of the impellor but carefully! Complete pump : have a look here https://www.partmaster.co.uk/permanent-magnet-sync-pump-assembly-with-pump-housing-35w/product.pl?pid=5150986&query=K10W7D18 that pump fits many other machines too.
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