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Model: AEG BPE742320M
PNC: 94418798401
Purchase Date: Oct ’22Our oven has, until very recently, worked flawlessly. It has a feature whereby if you open the door with the oven off then it will illuminate the interior lights, or similarly if you open the door whilst the oven is on (heating) it will temporarily cut the circulation fan. However, recently this has been misbehaving insofar that there is sometimes a delay between opening the door and the light coming on (or fan going off if heating), or it might work but then revert state briefly before then coming back etc.
I haven’t taken the lid off yet but I do know (from looking inside and taking pictures on first purchase – as you do!) that the door switch is combined with a powered lock to hold the door closed for pyrolytic cleaning and it could simply be a failing microswitch in there. Or I am wondering if it might be the power board – perhaps a failing relay that isn’t holding its on state? I should’ve mentioned that when the lights do illuminate there is definitely a relay click to be heard – more than one in fact – and I see from the photo of the power board it does make use of a good number of them:
Does anyone recognise these symptoms? Even if not, any thoughts as to the likely culprit? Best case scenario (as in cheapest) would probably be a dry joint on one of the relays that has worked itself loose from the heat/cool cycles that it will have been through, or simply a failing relay that I can just swap out. It is surely more likely to be something mechanical like that rather than, say, a logic problem elsewhere?
Any comments/suggestions gratefully received.
P.S. I don’t suppose anyone has a wiring diagram / service manual? It wouldn’t just help me with this issue but it’s the sort of thing I love reading!
P.P.S. I see that eBay has loads of these power boards available with a variety of different model numbers and yet, at first glance at least, identical in appearance. Is it the case that whilst they might be standard hardware fitted to different models there may be software differences that renders them non-alike?Thanks for the quick reply Dave.
From the outside I have confirmed that the plunger is moving okay – both in under finger pressure and back out on its spring. That’s not to say electrically is it necessarily functioning correctly though. I’ll take the top off the at the weekend and will certainly be testing that first.
Wonderful – thank you Dave. I was going to start with a guess but now I know which connector to go for! Thanks again.
Had a look this weekend but, typical for me, the issue wasn’t present at the time. I took the lid off to have a look anyway and there wasn’t anything obvious – no discoloured relays, obvious dry joints etc.
The switch output of the door lock was behaving, closing the output when the door opened, but I decided to dismantle it anyway and take a look inside. As per Dave’s schematic there is a ‘doorlock feedback’ switch inside and this happened to use the exact same microswitch type as that for the ‘door open’:
So, I desoldered them both and swapped them round to see if the problem moved with it. However, I’m not exactly sure I did swap them round as I wasn’t quite paying as much attention as I should’ve done! Again, typical!!
Will see how things go. If it is ‘fixed’ then perhaps I did in fact swap the microswitches over and the problem may reappear in a different guise when next doing a pyrolytic clean, or perhaps it was cured by virtue of me resoldering the joints or having removed and reinserted all the connectors on the board.
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