LGF1222TD stuck on drain

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  • #103364
    Bewildered_Pigeoon
    Participant

    I’m at my wits end. I’ve taken this thing apart multiple times in the past (hence the multiple number of spares I’ve tried below) and as far as I can tell I have actually run out of things to check this time. Any and all suggestions at this point would be very gratefully received.

    I’m going to very exhaustively list what’s occurred so sorry if this is a wall of text.

    Washing Machine model is F1222TD. Had it for some 6-7 years now, changed various parts in it over time. Most recent piece were the bearings but that was about 6 months ago. Recently, without any outside changes (work done, change in position, etc) occurring, it started getting stuck at 11 minutes — which is when it does the first major drain before beginning the spin cycle. It drains (and it does actually drain, you can see the water going out), then tentatively begins to spin. After 10-20 seconds of that it pauses, adds a bit more water, then tries to spin again. The cycle repeats indefinitely, with the occasional lengthy pause of doing nothing.

    Occasionally it’s giving me error codes. Usually ‘OE’ (drainage trouble), but occasionally ‘PE’ (pressure sensor error), ‘FE’ (overfilling water) and, once, ‘IE’ (water inlet trouble).

    Sometimes I will come back to it and find a small pool of water in the bottom of the drum. Ordering it to pump out (spin cycle without spin) will drain it instantly. I haven’t worked out if this pool of water occurs when it’s left too long or happens randomly.

    Well, here’s the list of what I’ve tried in no particular order:

    • Changed level sensor (Two spares, none made any difference).
    • Changed level sensor hose (did not appear holed or kinked anyway)
    • Cleaned out pressure chamber (somewhat dirty but not majorly)
    • Cleaned out the rest of the rubber between the tub and pump
    • Cleaned out filter (nothing substantial in there… nothing stuck between filter housing and pump either)
    • Changed drain pump (I had a spare and, just in case it was burnt out, bought a new one. None made any difference. But as said it pumps out fine when ordered to directly.)
    • Removed and cleaned out drain hose (unkinked, somewhat dirty inside but not majorly)
    • Drain hose is correctly routed outside the machine as far as I can tell. It’s the way it always has been, regardless, and we’ve had no issues before.
    • Specifically made sure drain hose was not too far inside the waste pipe so it wasn’t siphoning backwards
    • Changed water inlet solenoids (I’m pretty sure this isn’t the trouble… but I thought I’d try it anyway)
    • Water inlet filter is also fine.
    • Changed the main PCB
    • Some sources mentioned it could perhaps be a balancing issue… but I’ve checked the shock absorbers and springs and they seem fine. The drum has good resistance to bouncing and feels firm. The washing machine has not moved position.
    • It doesn’t appear to be related to weight of washing inside. It occurs with large or small amounts of washing.
    • Isn’t sud related because A) we use gel and B) it occurs on a rinse.
    • There are no leaks inside or out the machine.
    • Everything otherwise sounds and looks fine.

    I genuinely have run out of things to check. At this point the only things I can think of are 1) replace the drain hose altogether (seems unlikely, it’s not kinked), 2) replace the pressure chamber (maybe there’s some crack that’s evaded me thus far), or 3) replace the much smaller power/noise filter in the machine (based purely on the fact I’ve never replaced it.). All seem likely to be a waste of money.

    I must be being tremendously stupid about something. It’s bound to be something simple. Any suggestions welcomed.

    #492873
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Blimey! Just one really simple question to you. How is the outlet / drain hose plumbed out? Is it down a down pipe OR is it to a below the worktop sink nozzle? If the former double check that the drain hose is not so far down the stand pipe that it reaches the U bend: if it does you get syphoning which can be slow or more obviously fast (could be either) would/could give you a seemingly pressure swt/ inlet valve / or refilling the machine scenario you describe; SO just raise the machines drain hose so it fits roughly 8 to 12″ down the stand pipe preferably with a stirrup U hook thing that`ll stop, God forebid, the bloody hose dislodging and parting company with the stand pipe with a flood when your back is turned which I can assure you that happens.
    The only 2 other things that comes to mind is a A) one of those strange heater earthing problems. You could try putting the machine on a cold wash and see what, if anything, improves the situation and if so then change the heater (if you just take the wires off you`re likely to get a fault code). I doubt it will be this.
    B) I have checked for your model so check the breather hose which would be 7 to 9″ concertener black hose that goes from the rear or the side of the soap box to the top of the tank – if that gets blocked-up you get a vacuum withinn the tank/drum which causes all sorts of wierd and wonderful faults to do with pressure swt and valve problems (strange but it does!!) – make sure you check this properly like remove it off the tank because I once had the hose feeling clear but there was a thin film of yukk right across the tank hole it fits into!!.
    Other than these I cannot think of anything else. The input noise filter it will not be.
    Best of luck.

    #492874
    andyjawa
    Participant

    Concertina not concertener

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