Can use existing door panel fittings on new integrated dishwasher? (BEKO)

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  • #103436
    bluin
    Participant

    Hi

    Hoping an experienced fitter/DIY’er can help

    I’ve just received my new integrated BEKO (BDIN26430) which is replacing my BEKO of 12 years (DW686) – and the face of the door looks almost identical to my old appliance.

    However, the supplied kitchen door/facia fitting attachments are different on the new new unit. It has 2 plastic round circles that you screw in and then slide into the top part of the dishwasher front. The old BEKO used a different bracket type system (see below attached pic) – that slide into the rectangular openings on the skin of the door (*These openings are on the new dishwasher too).

    I had left the old fixings on my kitchen facia panel in the hope that the fittings would be the same. And, although there are different fittings supplied – the front of the new BEKO dishwasher looks exactly the same as my old appliance and looks like it would accommodate the old bracket style of fitting.

    Are there are any experienced fitters out there that could advise if the old bracket system is still suitable/safe on the new dishwasher? It would be greatly appreciated. Plus, save me a lot of time filling holes that are too close to where new screws would have to be drilled.

    *Additional: does a dishwasher have to fully connected to switch on? Just plugged it in it test before i start install and no light.
    Update – installed water supply and still no display/beeps,

    Pic of old style door fitting that was on DW686

    #493154
    kwatt
    Keymaster

    No, I am afriad that the fitting kits are specific to each cabinet and they are not interchangeable so you will need to use the kit supplied with the new machine, the old fittings will not work.

    K.

    #493155
    bluin
    Participant

    Thanks for the reply.

    That’s really unfortunate as I have screw holes that are just a couple of mm from where new fixings need to be screwed it. And unfortunately it’s proving impossible to fit.

    I’m either going to have to drill out the holes with a 10mm bit and glue in some doweling for the screws to get something to grip to or buy a new kitchen panel.

    I wish i had bought a different machine as they would have different fittings that probably wouldn’t have been close. I thought i was being sensible buying the same make for ease of fitting. Backfired…

    #493156
    electrofix
    Moderator

    glue some match sticks into the exiting holes using wood glue, then let it dry and smooth off with sandpaper and re drill new holes

    also I have no access to door fitting instructions for this machine but a lot of them you can vary where the screws go in some cases

    Dave

    #493157
    kwatt
    Keymaster

    Lawrence found a filler that could do it, he’s had to do a number of them but I forget what filler it was but he said it worked every time.

    K.

    #493158
    bluin
    Participant

    electrofix wrote:glue some match sticks into the exiting holes using wood glue, then let it dry and smooth off with sandpaper and re drill new holes

    Thanks for the reply, Dave – i would normally do this.

    However, I can’t drill a pilot as I’m having to screw blind; guided by dishwasher holes when door is partially in place so it stays true. The holes are so close to where I’ve got to screw my gut tells me that they will naturally gravitate to the softer wood of the matchstick. And if they do the door will be completely misaligned as they’re the only 2 screws that are used and so will dictate the alignment.

    Here’s the link to just the unit’s fitting instructions if it’s of any help, thanks:

    https://bekoplc.blob.core.windows.ne…GRAM_ar_AE.pdf

    kwatt wrote:Lawrence found a filler that could do it, he’s had to do a number of them but I forget what filler it was but he said it worked every time.

    Thanks, I considered wood filler but was concerned it would crumble. If you can remember the name of the product I would try it as it’s had successful results with the same issue.

    I considered an epoxy but it’s so hard to screw into – it’s like cement.

    I’ve done the dowel trick before – but only on door hinges (lots of depth to play with). I can only drill in about 5mm and then fill the hole with glue and dowel. I’m hoping that this will be strong enough on a dishwasher panel, it’s pretty heavy? (Have any of you done this before?)

    *i’m ordering another fascia door just in case – but it’s going to take 4 weeks to be delivered :/ If whatever fix I do works at least i will have a spare because if i have to replace the dishwasher again there will be too many holes in this one.

    #493159
    bluin
    Participant

    I’ve updated thread as this may prove useful to someone else – especially if they buy the same model. TBH – when my new/spare fascia arrives if i have to use it I will probably fit dowels again as the screws bite in far better and with more strength.

    Decided to use beech dowel.

    I’m having to do all the holes as the 2mm suggested pilot hole in the instructions proved way too big. The two fittings I had fitted in preparation; the screws were spinning/not tightening and with little effort one pulled out. The instructions and provided paper template are a ridiculous system.
    Now i know the proper measurements, I can use a tape measure and get exact measurements on both sides – as I have a much better understanding of where the top screws need to be (paper template made the door hang too low – and that was with 2 sets of eyes making sure template was ok.)

    Below is pic of dowels now filling the offset hole and of my original holes (same on other side) – glue drying to be cut and sanded and the ‘hopefully’ fixing will be a lot easier…


    ” When tested on a piece of wood the dowel makes an extremely strong fitting – if anyone else is having a similar problem or has loose fittings this is a relatively simple fix.

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