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Did a bearing change on this machine and I must have tugged on the interlock wires at some point as the edge connector has become detached from the module. There are 2 places it would go on, at the bottom far right of the board, marked P2, P1 & P9; or on the bottom, 2nd slit from the right, marked P28, P29 & P30. It’s a bit like being a bomb disposal technician, wondering which wires to cut. Can anyone help? 😕
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
Cant you see any marks on the edge connector tracks where the plug was before?
Bob
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
hi phildom
just fitted a module to one of these today still in workshop, cant work out where u get p1 p2 etc 😕 on mine interlock goes onto x1 bottom right corner all rest seem to be marked like that
regards
tonyRe: Hotpoint WMA61
Thanks Tony, just went back to my workshop, yes it does say X1 on the component side. The numbers I quoted are on the copper side. I looked carefully for scratch marks where the plug had gone but could not make out any, probably because it is quite a loose fit. 🙂
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
np get any other problems with it give us a shout as do loads of them all the time
regards
tonyRe: Hotpoint WMA61
I normally remove the facia complete with module and put it to one side when doing a drum/bearing change. Just make a note of the connections beforehand.
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
on most wma i do remove the facia complete but on wma 61 just remove the facia and leave the module in place as that is on the inside of the machine.
regards
tonyRe: Hotpoint WMA61
My own machine is a WMA63, did a drum last year on it, I just like to remove all the delicate bits out of the way, if you know what I mean Matron. 😆
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
On this one the motor was stuck on the mountings so I ended up taking the drum out with the motor attached. I usually lay the fascia and upper chassis panel on top of the cabinet but with this model the wires seem to get in the way more than on the lower specified WMAs
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
If the motor is tight I normally put the mounting bolts back in a couple of turns then tap on the bolt heads, never failed to shift one, and I always remove the facia and the top panel completely, for the few screws involved it makes the drum removal so much easier.
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
I’ve only ever done one WMA bearing change. Thereafter directed them to the 5 year parts warranty.
I took all the bits off and put them in the next room out of harms way.
I laid the machine onto its front to drop the drum out then pulled the cabinet back upright leaving the drum on the floor.Like for Zan splits only backwards. Is that how you’s do it?
Mike.Re: Hotpoint WMA61
No, I keep machine upright and lift the drum out through the front. Sump hose off, motor off, wiring off heater, front panel, facia inc module and facia backplate off, balance weights off, pegs out of suspension, throw back the dispenser out of the way and lift out.I don’t do bearing changes in the house, far to messy on these. I have a complete drum assy built up and ready to go. Then I salvage all that I can from the displaced unit and rebuild in my garage at my leisure, for the next job.
Re: Hotpoint WMA61
My technic is the best, of course!
Like Iadom, remove the facia and keep the machine upright. Then I take everything off the drum, except for the motor, belt and heater wires, because it’s a pain in the botty to do through that tiny panel.
It’s far easier to remove the drum, through the front, with the motor belt and heater wires still in place. The bag-ties down the front of the tub must be cut so there’s slack on the wiring haress. Then just pull the tub out and lay the tub on it front, in front of the empty cabinet. From here the motor is very easy to remove.
ps. The only wires I remove from compoents are the heater wires, and the pump plug. I leave every other compoent plugged in.
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