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Having had great success with help on fixing my Dishwasher I thought I’d have a go at sorting out our cooker.
Belling 902 cooker (nat gas) now converted to a 903 (lpg)
The ovens are electric and the hobs are gas.Ok, essentially there is no spark.
There is power reaching the spark switches, and the switches have also tested ok and the electrodes all seem to be ok, so I guess it’s the spark generator.Is there a way of testing it?
If not how much for a new one?Cheers
MikeRe: Belling 902 / 903 ignition
Mike_Javelin wrote:Is there a way of testing it?
Not really but it sounds like the problem?
Mike_Javelin wrote:If not how much for a new one?
I think you won’t get much change out of £50 or so? 🙁
Re: Belling 902 / 903 ignition
P/no is BT920239 – can’t find a price for it anywhere.
Dave’ll know…….. 😀
Regards,
Penguin45.Re: Belling 902 / 903 ignition
New part number 082607805 at £53.32 inc VAT plus carriage which is a little pricey I think.
It’s actually manufactured by Creda but I can’t cross reference this one, perhaps Creda/Cannon never used this version under their own brand name 😕
An email to spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk please if required (attach a photo of it if possible, I may be able to source a campatible unit) 🙂
Dave.
Re: Belling 902 / 903 ignition
Strangely and perhaps worryingly, the auto spark decided to work today.
On my inspection I found that none of the wires were loose and had tested all the terminals and switches which were all ok.
After re-assembly the spark system was not working, hence my first post.24hrs later and hey presto my better half thanks me for fixing the cooker
😯Don’t you just hate intermittant electrical problems, you just know it’s going to happen again but you don’t know when and you are even more unsure of the reason behind it 😈
Again, many thanks for your help, I feel sure I shall return 😉
Re: Belling 902 / 903 ignition
You have the original version farmhouse which had the troublesome auto ignition system.
This was later altered in production and a field fix was issued to correct existing types.
The problem was that either the ignition unit would spark all the time even when the burner was lit, or it would not spark at all.The fix was new ignition unit, separate ignition button(which means drilling the control panel) and new electrodes. Unfortunately replacing the electrodes on a new appliance was just about impossible as the steel screws in the alloy burner would not come out. I wouldn’t even think of trying this on an old one!
To make matters worse, I doubt if you would be able to get a unit with 5 re-ign outputs like the original.
On a more possitive note though, most of the trouble stemmed from the re-ign circuit made through the flame of the burner via the electrode and burner cap. Just giving the whole burner assemblies and the electrodes a really good clean often cured most of the faults. A word of warning though! the electrodes are very fragile and will break easily if you put too much pressure on them.
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