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Any help grealy appreciated!
Originally the freezer went down with a code E8- checked all the forum postings and came to conclusion it was the evaporator thermistor. Text book mistral fault- freezer at -22 and fridge at +22. Ordered it, received it next day (cheers guys at the shop!) fitted and error code stopped showing! Great I think but…..
…. now the flipping compressor won’t start. I must have done something while replacing the thermistor. And if I don’t fix it my missus will never let me do anything again- it’ll be hotpoint engineer right away and money out my pocket and into theirs. Though she might have a point…
I have … tested the thermal resistors in the freezer compartment-both fine, tested all thermistors- all fine, replaced PCB with a new one and I’m getting stuck for ideas.
If I hold the save button when switching on it does the startup tests- runs through the display, runs the evaporator fan etc.
But the compressor does nothing. I can’t hear any relay clicking out- does this model just have a thermistor as the overload protector? The condensor fan doesn’t run either? Possibly connected?
Does anyone know if the overload tripping would cause this result? Or how to test to see if it has blown? Or even what it looks like..Lol
I’d like to ask for a wiring diagram but I’m guessing that’s a bit of a holy grail.
Cheers in advance!
Re: Mistral- compressor not starting
bob, from memory, these fridges don’t just start up straight away from power up.
the board will do a series of checks and possibly a defrost cycle, give it a few minutes.
if it still wont start, then it’s likely you’ve dislodged a connector or you’ve got a loose connection somewhere.
before ringing hotpoint, try the repairs @ feature on this site.
cheers.Re: Mistral- compressor not starting
Hi Alf
Cheers for reply- I’ve gone through and checked all the connections- all seem fine. I’m stumpted. Couple of questions-
The thermal overload cutouts both measure 0K at 22C- is this correct? (by these I mean the red blocks mounted on the evaporator coils) Should they be shorted (0K) or open (infinity K)? I’m guessing short and they ‘pop’ when overheated and go open.
Also- I’ve just remembered I accidentaly knocked a wire out when replacing the thermistor. I put it back in the logical place but I’m wondering if I’m wrong. The wire that came loose was the brown wire coming from one of the thermal fuses. I put it back into the white connector next to the thermistors. The only other spare slot is in the white connector on the right where the live goes to the fan and heater. Anyone know where it should be or ideally have any pictures (really wish I’d taken some!)
Cheers 😛
Re: Mistral- compressor not starting
hello bob, i haven’t seen one of these in ages, so i’m not the person best qualified to help you.
however, if you’re talking about the defrost termination stat(s), you should have continuity when the evaporator is down to temp and very high resistance, typically 250k ohms at room temp.
these shouldn’t affect the compressor and condensor fan though.
also if you misplaced the wire from the toc, then that shouldn’t really affect the compressor, just the defrost cycle.
i am willing to bet that of all the pcb’s ordered for the mistral, about 30{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} were the correct diagnosis!
it looks like it’s engineer time, although we all hate coming in at the wrong end of the job.
with all due respect, we wouldn’t really know what faults have been built in to the appliance now.
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