Bearing change on a Zanussi WDS 1183 W

DISCLAIMER: Attempt this at your own risk, I will not be held liable.
This may also help if you are trying to change the door seal

I was looking at posts saying that this is not a DIY task but since I am one not to be beaten easily, I embarked on this journey of enlightenment. I came out the other end with the result I wanted even if it took longer than expected.

1. Start by turning off the mains and disconnecting it and all other supplies and wastes.

2. Remove 2 screws from the bottom rear, one from the upper right and 2 screws from the top rear, this last pair release the top cover. This will then expose six screws on the top half way along each side, undo all of these. This will allow you to remove the back and half sides.

3. Release the belt, easily done by levering a small amount up and turning the axle through about half a turn.

4. I then released the three drains from the drum.

5. Release the springs from their top mounting

6. Drive the pins out from the bottom “shock absorbers”

7. Now at the front of the machine undo the small screw at about 1 o’clock, release the door seal from the hot air duct. Now release the front seal by undoing the catch at about 6 o’clock, remove the securing strap and unsnap the seal.

8. With care – the motor is still attached withdraw the outer drum and place it on the floor. It was easier to manoeuvre the drum when the rear cement was removed from it. Remember the wires are still attached, I left them attached apart from the heating element plugs coloured brown and black.

9. Now you need to remove the motor, held in by four screws on spiggots

10. Undo around 16 screws and seperate the outer drum

11. On the back of the outer drum the spinning wheel has a 17mm? bolt in it, undo this, you will need to hold the inner drum at the same time. Once undone, pull off the spinning wheel/spider, replace the bolt and hammer this bolt through. This will release the inner drum and give access to the bearings.

12. Note the bearings and the seals then drive these out with a tap, or old socket and extension.

13. Drive in new bearings and seals, using suitable sized sockets

14. Place inner drum back inside, fix spinner to rear with 17mm bolt.

15. Rejoin outer drum 2 halfs, I use silicon sealant on the rubber joint gasket to ensure a watertight seal.

16 Reverse the fitting procedure.

NOTE: Fitting the door seal is much easier when you have released the seal from the front casing, I did not do this and wasted a few hours trying to get it back on before realising an easier way so if you have pulled the seal from the outer drum instead then completely release the seal from the machine as descibed earlier. Set the large spring aside, using washing up liquid moisten the edge of the seal and push it over the outer drum, ensure a good fit all the way around. Then slip the spring over to seal around the outside of the seal around the outer drum. On my seal you could see and feel fine surface imperfections from the seating of the spring previously. The seal to the fron it easy but make sure the arrow points up towards the little screw at 1 o’clock

Note – it was easier to manoeuvre the drum when the rear cement was removed from it.
Also easier to re-establish the springs when the machine was laying on its front, gravity is not working against you then.

Good luck……