Hello folks, help with KGU3201GB/01 please

Thanks for the replies

Thank you both for replying.

I agree that a ‘hardware’ fault with the defrost circuitry (basically two heaters and a fan, right?) would seem to be consistent with the observed fault. With plug out of the wall, and each of these three components unplugged, I’ve already measured resistances in the hundreds/low thousands (IIRC) of ohms region for these which sounds better than open-circuit or short-circuit. I can measure these resistances more accurately if anyone knows what the approx. ‘correct’ figures are.

Then, I’m thinking, if hardware seems OK in freezer compartment , get my way into the PCB area (yup, plug out of the wall), and see if there are any visual clues of burnt out components, or capacitors with bulgy/leaking cans.

Point taken about contacting engineer, and thanks for the links.

Cheers for help,

Pete

Re: Hello folks, help with KGU3201GB/01 please

Hello again,

Some progress, but still some questions outstanding, and a new one.

Just had the doors off in order to get to the PCB(s), plug out of wall of course. Whilst removing the doors my g/f noticed that the ‘middle bit’ between the doors, i.e. the floor of the fridge/ceiling of freezer, was warm to the touch along its front edge. This surprised us both. I attempted to remove the trim panel covering this area, but without success, but could see in well enough to see no wiring or anything behind there. (So that’s the new question, why is that area getting warm?)

Thorough inspection of the main control PCB revealed nothing amiss. Electrolytic capacitors all seem OK (visually, and with a tan-delta meter), diodes all check out OK, no burnt out conventional or SM components.
I’m thinking that’s a good PCB, though without a schematic, hard to test more fully. No reason to think the display PCB has any issues, so didn’t even inspect that.

So back to the questions of how my fridge part gets its cooling (‘cos I see no passages for cold air to be ducted up into it, just the one drain hole at its rear). And secondly, perhaps relatedly, what does the solenoid valve (?) at the back, to the right of the compressor (looking at the rear, from the rear) do? If this does alternate the flow of refrigerant ‘tween fridge section and freezer section, then it sticking in the ‘cool the fridge’ position could explain why my freezer sometimes warms up, but the fridge is always OK.

Edit 19:58 Aha! Are the two things with plastic ‘grills’ over them, the cold air ducts I should have seen? One at the very bottom rear of the freezer section, the other just above the first shelf, LHS of fridge? I’d assumed they were covers over thermistor temp. sensors…

I guess one other possibility is that the starter capacitor for the compressor is ‘on its way out’, anyone experienced that, with this model? That couldn’t explain the fact the fridge section keeps set temperature even when the freezer comes all the way up to ambient though, I don’t think.

Wisdom please, anyone. 🙂

Pete

Re: Hello folks, help with KGU3201GB/01 please

Oh, I see!

Thanks nomadPaul, that’s a very helpful reply. I would never have thought of that. One less thing to worry about 😆 .

Pete

Update, 1 week on

Expect you’re all fed up of hearing from me, but never mind.

One week on from disconnecting the de-frost heaters and all is well.

To me this suggests (still) two possibilities.

1. The defrost heaters were staying on when they shouldn’t have been on. This seems unlikely, as I believe all the ‘tronics controlling their action is solid-state, and less likely to have an intermittent fault than say a relay with dirty/worn contacts. I’d expect the power devices on the PCB that energise these heaters to either work when asked to, or have failed forever…But open to suggestion if anyone knows better. 🙂

2. The defrost heating was causing the compressor (additional workload), or indirectly (via radiated heat?) the solenoid valve to go into a fail/stuck state. Likely?

As ever, all suggestions/assistance gratefully received,

Pete