AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

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  • #34246
    GregE240
    Participant

    Help!!

    After about 16 months of ownership, our washer dryer is now only a washer!

    Looking at the manual, an E20 error indicates draining, so I spent a good hour last night flushing the machine through with hoy soapy water. I got a bit of lint out, but not that much. Still get the error.

    As per the title, this ONLY happens on a drying cycle.

    I had a quick look on the ‘web last night, and there was a suggestion about some sort of filter blocked (not the one on the front right of the machine), but I cannot see how to get the back off the machine as it appears to go halfway round the machine?

    Any help or advice most appreciated.

    #241813
    kelland
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    the condenser unit is blocked, they get blocked with fluff or if you have a dog and wash rugs it will block even quicker!
    only do this if you are competent working on an appliance with it disconnected from the mains!
    the lid has to be removed and the rear half of the cabinet has to be removed, you will see a clear plastic chamber running down the side of the machine from the fan motor downwards. Remove the hose clip at the bottom of the chamber then lower the chamber away from the fan, clean it out by flushing and using a coat hanger wire to clear awkward bits.

    #241814
    GregE240
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    What a helpful, fabulous website.

    Once I worked out how to get the rear clam off the main chassis, sure enough, there was the condensor, completely blocked. I ummed and ahhed about how to get the condensor out, then my missus kneeled down, and then stood up, holding the condensor body in her right hand!

    A thorough wash under a very hot tap and some flushes with cleaner, and a nice, clean condensor got put back in.

    Nervously ran a full wash then a dry last night, and sure enough the dryer now works like a charm!

    Think there may be a bit of a design fault in the condensor as it looks like it may block far too easily. I fully expect to do this again in another 18 months.

    Thanks for your advice. I’ve saved an engineer callout.

    #241815
    kelland
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    of course it will go in 18 months….us engineers need to be kept in a job!

    #241816
    Button
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    I know this thread is 6 months old now, but I have exactly the same problem with my AEG 16830 so am following the instructions here to fix it.

    However, I’m completely stuck just trying to remove the back of the machine! I’ve taken out all the screws I can see (including the ones on the metal bracket across the top) but the thing won’t come off. I see that GregE240 says “once I worked out how to get the rear clam off the main chassis”, which kind of sounds like there’s a knack to it, but it’s eluding me!

    Any help would be greatly appreciated 🙂

    Thanks.

    #241817
    DavidM
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Removing the back is a real fiddle.

    At the top back corners, remove bolts holding top and remove the top.

    Looking down from the back, on each side, four cadmium plated bolts with lock washers secure the sides to the inner chassis. Remove the two nearest the back on both sides.

    Looking down, in the back left hand corner is the fan; a single bolt secures the back panel to it. Remove it and note that it is not the same as the bolts so far removed.

    At the bottom on the back, three bolts secure the back to the chassis. Remove and note that, again they are different from all others so far.

    On each side , where the rear panel meets the front panel, at the bottom, find a plastic blanking plug. Remove it, and undo the bolt it hides. (When you reassemble it’s very easy to “lose” this bolt inside. Chewing gum to hold it in your socket spanner will make life very much easier).

    All that is now holding the panel is the while plastic moulding which holds the cold water inlet – you have turned the water off and disconnected the pipe from the back haven’t you? A little plastic catch on each side holds this moulding, and once removed the back is free to slide off the plastic rails of the machine base…

    Continue with care …. it’s still a real fiddle to remove and replace the condenser, but the solution works… Many thanks to previous posters!![/list]

    #241818
    Ramborich
    Participant

    Thanks for the advice. Just followed it and fixed machine in about an hour.

    I owe someone a pint and thanks for the post and replies.

    Condenser blocker by a colour catcher. Advice here is don’t use them!!!

    #241819
    wizbitgibbs
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Good advice guys, worked a charm. I was having the same problem as mentioned – wash cycles worked fine, but drying cycles aborted with error code E20 within a few minutes of starting.

    I just followed DavidM’s instructions and got the back off and then worked out the rest – it’s not any harder than dismantling a computer; a washing machine just weighs more.

    I don’t know how much variation there is between units, but all my bolts/screws fitted an 8mm socket.

    Once the back’s off, the condenser is a plastic box that runs almost the full height of the machine on the left hand side (when viewing from the rear). To get it off I removed the large black hose where it joined the main drum (I didn’t remove the hose from the condenser mainly because the screw that secured it there was less accessible).

    Then (and this was the awkward bit) I levered the bottom of the condenser up and out of the frame using a couple of flat-head screwdrivers. The condenser then dropped down and off the machine very easily. Finally I removed the cable that connected to the sensor in the black hose and the condensor was free.

    Cleaning the condensor just involved hot water. Although there was a lot of gunk in the main body of the condenser (which I removed anyway), that part wasn’t blocked at all – but if you look closely, one edge of the unit forms a narrow, separate channel which looks like it might form some kind of overflow / escape route for hot air. For me this was both blocked and awkward to get to – it took several sluices of hot water to loosen and dislodge the gunk in it.

    Finishing up from there was a straight reversal of getting it all off. Remember to make sure the condensor hasn’t got lots of pooled water in it ready to spill out, and that the socket for the sensor cable is nice and dry – you don’t want to get any water on the electrical bits in the machine. Also remember reattach the cable to the sensor in the hose BEFORE reattaching the black hose to the drum; you won’t get sufficient purchase to clip it in otherwise. And make sure the black hose is fully connected to the drum all the way round before you tighten its securing collar.

    All in, the whole thing probably took me about 90 minutes with a stop for tea in the middle. Couldn’t have done it without the help in this thread. I <3 you internets. 🙂

    #241820
    David Williams
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Fantastic information – thanks to everyone who has shared their knowledge and experience!

    I’ve just fixed this exact fault on our machine, and saved an engineer call-out.

    I just want to add a little suggestion of my own about how to remove the condenser. As wizbitgibbs says, this is the trickiest part. But rather than trying to release it at the bottom end first, I found it easier to pull upwards on the fan assembly at the top of the machine. The assembly has just enough “give” to enable you to pop the top of the condenser out from where it mates up with the fan assembly. It’s then simple to unclip it at the bottom using a screwdriver.

    #241821
    cornytiv34
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Thanks to all who contributed the information that enabled me to fix the same fault in our machine.

    It seems to me that it is irresponsible of AEG to sell a machine with parts that require periodic servicing that are not easily accessible. The number of people having these faults seems to indicate this is a design fault.

    Happy New Year to all.

    #241822
    whitespud
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Hi,just joined..have the same symptom of not drying,but done all the above (condense bottle was half clogged), there was a clod of fluff on the NTC, but this hasnt fixed it !
    The NTC has 48k stamped on it (& thats what it measures).
    The blower WAS orignally stalled, but runs ok now.
    The 2 Thermal cut outs on the side of the heat chamber meter
    out ok as closed, I have replaced the thermal sensor on the
    front of the heat chamber.same resistance as the original.
    240V is seen at all the heater terminals (both elements are 60 ohms good)..following the neutral (yellow) wires back, they come straight from the PCB at the front right corner of the mc.

    Maybe my problem is that the PCB isnt suplying the ground shot to the other side of the elements ?? But rather than suspecting that its the board (and wasting £250), does anybody know what conditions must be satisfied to make the board give that signal out to the elements ? pls help

    #241823
    whitespud
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Hi,just joined..have the same symptom of not drying,but done all the above (condense bottle was half clogged), there was a clod of fluff on the NTC, but this hasnt fixed it !
    The NTC has 48k stamped on it (& thats what it measures).
    The blower WAS orignally stalled, but runs ok now.
    The 2 Thermal cut outs on the side of the heat chamber meter
    out ok as closed, I have replaced the thermal sensor on the
    front of the heat chamber.same resistance as the original.
    240V is seen at all the heater terminals (both elements are 60 ohms good)..following the neutral (yellow) wires back, they come straight from the PCB at the front right corner of the mc.

    Maybe my problem is that the PCB isnt suplying the ground shot to the other side of the elements ?? But rather than suspecting that its the board (and wasting £250), does anybody know what conditions must be satisfied to make the board give that signal out to the elements ? pls help.

    Forgot to mention ,,I DONT get any E codes !!

    #241824
    andybhoy
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Just wanted to thank everyone in this thread for saving me a wedge of cash, and giving us our dryer back. We’ve been coping without it but only just (4 month old in a small flat with washing hanging up everywhere).

    We never would have considered doing it ourselves till we found these instructions. Was very easy to do (only sticking point was having to go buy a socket set when we couldn’t get the bolts on the side out).

    Thanks again,
    Andy

    #241825
    alanpj
    Participant

    Re: AEG 16830 Lavamat Turbo E20 error on drying cycles ONLY

    Hi all
    I have a nearly 4 year old AEG Lavamat 16850 (not 16830) and tried to follow these instructions, but the condensor was impossible to remove. The service engineer kindly showed me how to remove the fan from the top – two bolts with cross heads, disconnect the two wires, and unclip from the drain hose – also take out three bolts without cross heads from the top metal vent pipe – then the fan can be loosened and taken out, and the condensor can be cleaned out using a wire coat hangar. You can hardly believe the amount of fluff. There is no need to take off the back of the machine, or to disconnect the bottom of the condensor (which I had done, and the service engineer also kindly refitted that !)
    Regards, alanpj

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