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Whirlpool ADP 9520/1
Service code 8542 952 15110
Heater replaced about three months ago.
Circulation pump replaced about 15 months ago.When running a 65° wash cycle (the normal wash) it will start OK with the spray arms audibly spinning, but as the water warms up there comes a point where the pump sudenly slows up – doesn’t stop completely but slows to the point that water is only just coming out of the lower spray bar, and not spinning it. Timer still works fine, and the water is eventually pumped out, but the wash is poor (“grit” left in cups). Same thing happens in the hot rinse.
No error codes produced, no flashing lights and the cycle otherwise completes ok.
50° cycle runs to completion with no faults, or at least it does at the moment.
Haven’t tested the 70° cycle yet – will report when that is done.
Is this a pump failing? It isn’t all that old…
Re: Whirlpool ADP9520 – circ pump stops when the water gets
It sounds like current leakage……. New heater or not, I think you need to get it insulation tested as soon as possible.
Penguin45.
Re: Whirlpool ADP9520 – circ pump stops when the water gets
Well, it isn’t simply temperature-related after all: the 70° wash cycle also runs through with no issues. Both 65° cycles stop pumping properly in the middle of the wash stage. I’m going to try taking water temperatures before and after it stops. But I can’t think what might be going wrong. This is an electronic machine, so it isn’t the cams in the timer wearing out 🙂
Re: Whirlpool ADP9520 – circulation issue – lessons learned
Fixed, and lessons learned in the process.
Insulation test positive, no insulation failure in pump or heater ( I assume you meant the pump, as testing the heater wouldn’t seem to prove why the pump was going slow?).
Fault came to manifest itself on all wash cycles. Wasn’t a total failure but affected quality of wash.
Then I discovered that the sides come off the machine, giving better access and vision. This allowed me to see how tightly packed everything was.
The new heater was slightly longer than the part it replaced, not in the element but the pipe that it wraps around. When replacing it from the front I had pushed the flexi hose from the sump on far enough to seal but not all the way down, so it was slightly kinked, and resting against the box that held the controller board.
I took apart all the hose connections I could, reasoning that something was coming loose when it got warm and choking the pipes. Couldn’t find anything, so reassembled it all, now pushing the sump hose all the way down the long pipe on the new heater, so that it wasn’t kinked.
Tested the machine with no covers on. It ran fine! Reassembled, and in the past few days have tested every program and all work as expected.
My guess is that the flexi hose was collapsing once the temperature got high enough, perhaps provoked by the heater pipe expanding, pushing it against the controller box. This would explain the partial choking of the circulation, and would be consistent with the sounds made by the pump trying to restart during my tests.
So what have I learned:
– make sure everything goes back to *exactly* the same places it came from.
– flexible hoses can flex in ways you didn’t expect.
– a circulation problem can by hydraulic, even if it looks electrical.
– dishwashers are built around the wash chamber, the sides can be non-structuralI now have a working dishwasher again, for which I am profoundly grateful as the washing machine has finally packed up with a nadgered main bearing, and we’re relying on the kindness of neighbours while waiting for the new ISE 5 to arrive at the local supplier – all the old ones having been sold out. This thread refers, Kate XXXXXX is my better half 🙂
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