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drobton.
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December 10, 2008 at 6:38 pm #41759
drobton
ParticipantWe have an Electrolux cooker Model EPSOPMSS S/N 944250330.
It was part of a fitted kitchen.On Saturday my wife was using the oven to cook some sausages when all power to the oven went. There is an LCD display on the front – no display. After that it switching on and off the power at the plug has on occasions returned power only for it to go off again when the oven is turned on.
Last night I tried it again and power came on and stayed on to heat oven for 5 mins and it reached its temperature setting. I switched the oven off but kept it turned on at mains, power was still reaching the oven as display was still on. Tonight went to use the oven, turned it on to heat up and it lasted about 30 secs before all power went again.Thoughts?
December 10, 2008 at 7:57 pm #271243drobton
ParticipantRe: No power – well most of the time
Update. I took the back plate off and no obvious (to my untrained eye) sign of a problem.
After a while I switched on at socket and it came on. Switched oven on and it stayed on and reached its setting temp. Tested it by switching oven on and off and it continued to work. Should point out it was the fan oven setting it was on – this may be important.
Next thing that happened was a slight grinding noise then all power went again. I switched it off then on at wall again which returned power and display came on. I have since switched the oven back on but on the conventional setting and it has stayed on for the last 10 mins.
Was the grinding noise anything to do with the fan and if so would a problem there cut out the power.December 15, 2008 at 5:29 pm #271244cockney steve
ParticipantRe: No power – well most of the time
Are you sure the “grinding” noise wasn’t actually the sound of contacts arcing?
Although sockets are nominally 13 amps, the contact-area touching the pins is, IMHO marginal.
cookers(that is, ovens rated under 13 amps) on 13 amp plugs are running on the edge of reliability….a spur is better..if you want a switch-a double-pole switch of 20-40 amp rating will handle it with a good safe margin…the cost differential is peanuts.
I’d also check the main terminal block where the supply enters the appliance….ISOLATE/UNPLUG FIRST.
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