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Hi,
My Creda Europa 48105M fan oven has just died. I’ve taken out the element and I need a new one (done this before). But the thermostat (or energy controller as they seem to call them these days) seems a bit odd. The “on” light stays on all the time. This has been a bit dicky for a while but seemed to behave if you wiggled the control.
I’ve taken the oven out and looked at the control. There is the normal thin copper pipe coming in so it is clearly a thermostat. At the front is a double switch which turns on when the knob is rotate the first say 20deg and stays. I would have thought that one of these switches turned the fan on/off and one was in series with the thermostat but it does not seem to be wired that way. I can’t see how a thermostat on its own would be ok. That would rely on the 0 position being lower than any house temperature, so what would happen if the house was unoccupied? You need “0” on the scale to be -10? to ensure the oven never turned on on its own.
The thermostat is still working somewhat. Without an element I can’t tell if the temperature is accurate but if I warm the sensor with a hot air gun then the “on” light will go off.
Hence I could do with a wiring diagram to understand what is going on. Or someone to explain it.
Thanks
Re: creda oven wiring diagram?
You can’t have a wiring diagram – Forum Rules apply.
If you wish to stay alive, turn the power off. There is absolutely no requirement to live test if you have a test meter.
Double switch on the front of the thermostat turns the circulation fan. I *think* the second pair run the cooling fan, from memory. If the thermostat cycles with heat, don’t worry about it until you’ve replaced the element. To determine accuracy is extraordinarily difficult – an infrared remote thermostat and a lot of patience will give you a reasonable idea, but it’s a lot of money to invest in an elderly oven.
Stay safe, power off.
Penguin45,
Moderator.Re: creda oven wiring diagram?
I would have turned the power off anyway but thanks for the warning. I traced out the wiring (so this is not copyright) and FYI it goes like this:
Oven control is thermostat, Switch A , Switch B. A + B are closed if knob is on.
L in —-
Door Switch (at back near cable in)
—-
Front Panel (This for timer/manual I guess)
—–
Stat-1 + Switch AStat -2 —- Element
Stat is the ONLY thing that switches the element on/off
Switch A turns on the oven fan and triggers the timer PCB
The timer PCB controls the control cooling fan which runs on after everything is switch offSwitch B is wired in parallel with the top oven Switch B and I think the purpose is to warn if you set auto cook but don’t set a temperature on either oven or top oven.
The stat has a hole at the back which takes a small hex nut driver (M3?). This is labelled + – – and allows the stat to be adjusted so I’ve tweaked that a bit and now the oven is off. This wouldn’t be how I’d design it but there you are. I will make sure I turn off the cooker at the wall when I go away in future it case it turns on in cold weather.
As it happens I do have an IR thermometer but it wouldn’t be any good for checking this as I don’t reckon you could be sure it was reading through the oven glass and not the glass itself. I have a much cheaper meter (AFAIR <£5) which takes a thermocouple so I was planing to trap the thin thermocouple wire in the door seal and use that to measure the internal temperature to check it when I have a new element.
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