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Hi im wondering if anyone can help me please if I am asking in the right place.
My washing machine recently started working poorly. After a cycle the waste water wouldnt drain out and at the end of the wash the door wouldnt open. We tried putting it through an extra spin which would occasionally clear enough water to release the door but there was still water in the drum and the clothes were soaking.
After some detective work on the internet and reading/watching for various solutions I came to the conclusion that it may be a blockage in the waste pipe or the pump was not working properly. I checked the waste pipe which was clear of any kinks or obstructions so I removed the pump from its position to check any serial numbers etc in case I had to order a new part. At the same time I removed 3 screws and checked inside the pump and discovered a 10 pence coin lodged in it along with a short bit or metal wire and a baby wipe. I removed this and reconnected the tubes to the pump and put the machine through a cycle to see if this made a difference.
It did! Waste water started draining through the pipe so I am assuming things were looking promising. Problem was the pump was still temporarily removed from its secured position and in the process of everything going on the electrical spade connector terminal that is connected to the pump touched the metal casing of the washing machine and yup you guessed it.
A little crack and a flash and all the electric went off. After re-setting this at the distribution board I noticed that there is no longer anything working at the washing machine. No lights coming on etc. I have changed the fuse in the plug and there is 230V going into the machine as I tested it with a voltage indicator. Also on the outgoing side of the capacitor it reading 230V is this correct or an indication that the capacitor has blown and needs replacing?
If not what can I do to solve the problem as I almost had things sorted but due to my own stupidity and not disconnecting the power to secure the pump back into place I have obviously created a new fault.
Any help would be very much appreciated. By the way I am an electrician so understand technical jargon but not experienced with appliance repair.
Thanks in advance.
Rob.
PS. Washing machine details I could find on machine are….
Hoover Nextra Optima Wash System. HNL 6166-80
Re: Washing machine help.
its not a capacitor its a suppresor, you will have blown the triac on the pcb, if you look at the main pcb you will see a blown triac its more obviuos if its the 3 legged variety less obvious if its surface mounted.
i would say plug out first but you must be lucky not to have electrocuted yourself the first time round.Re: Washing machine help.
Thankyou Suedehead for your prompt reply. Much appreciated. Yes there is a three legged triac visible.
I havent opened up the machine this evening to check if there are any signs thats its blown. What is the best way to test to ensure it is that component?
Am I right in assuming it is a case of replacing the Triac and starting over?
Many thanks once again. And yes I know I was lucky. I know the dangers, it had been a long day when I made the mistake but at least i’m being honest. I expect most people have made mistakes in their time.
Re: Washing machine help.
Rob78 wrote:
I expect most people have made mistakes in their time.
Anyone who has been in this trade for more than a few years that says the haven’t made similar mistakes is telling porkys. 😉
You may get lucky and be able to replace the faulty triac but there is a good chance it may have done more damage.
Re: Washing machine help.
If its not the triac then am I right in assuming I need to buy a new washer? 🙂
Re: Washing machine help.
you *may* be lucky enough to find an old-fashioned TV /radio engineer/electronics man to rework your board…….the semiconductors and electrolytic capacitors (the vulnerable bits) are buttons to buy, EXCEPT the EEPROM, which carries the machine-manufacturers’ programme. It will be exclusive to them , unless you have very sophisticated kit and can read the programme and burn it to a new “chip” (assuming you can identify it as a standard component! )…then you’re stuffed
there is a possibility the EEPROM is OK-for the cost of a triac, it’s worth substituting it with a new one….Maplin, RS or CPC may have, or many USA suppliers are happy to ship to UK.
Semiconductor /transistor / electronics tutorials are plentiful on the net.
Re: Washing machine help.
Rob78 wrote:If its not the triac then am I right in assuming I need to buy a new washer? 🙂
The main circuit board will show that the triac feeding the pump has blown. The board can be repaired and specialist repairers can sort it for you for a modest fee.
I’m just a tad unsure if (with respect) that you may not be best placed to see this job through though and would suggest that your local washing machine repairer is best suited to do it for you. It’s not a difficult job and certainly not expensive for a bit of trade assistance to intervene and get your machine working again.
Tip of the day: Don’t mess with 240 volts, click on the link below for a local engineer in your area. 🙂
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