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- This topic has 12 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 2 months ago by
lou345.
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AuthorPosts
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January 23, 2010 at 5:01 pm #51904
lou345
ParticipantDear All
Couple of days ago , the washing machine popped the fuse on the meter. After reset, the machine was operating but the drum was not turning. I assumed it must be the motor but after reading other posts here I decided to check the brushes. It has been very tricky trying to access them however. They cannot be accessed through the removable panel in the back ( where you can access the belt) and the only removable panel seems to be on the bottom. I removed this by putting machine on back and have managed to take out one brush and it is indeed worn out. Spares are on their way.
My question is:
1 -Would a worn out brush cause the fuse to pop, or is this sign of something more drastic.
2- Have I missed something or is there an easier way to access motor?
3 The second brush is more difficult to access, so I may have to remove motor. Any ideas on how to do this, Do you I remove bolts first through the removable back panel.
I have pics that I can upload.
Thanks for all your help
LouJanuary 23, 2010 at 5:15 pm #309819iadom
ModeratorRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
You should always remove the motor to fit brushes. If it has blown the circuit breaker you may be lucky but there is chance it will have taken the motor overload out.
A small ratchet socket drive through the back panel or from underneath to remove the bolts.
You would need a suitable megger or multi meter to test the motor before you refit it.
Also likely that the motor commutator is damaged, this would need a new motor to get the machine up and running.
Sadly its not a good sign when it trips. 😥
January 23, 2010 at 5:25 pm #309820nomadPaul
ParticipantWhen you decide to remove the motor , i would advise wearing a long sleeve top as the edges of the ‘teardrop’ hole can be lethal .
January 24, 2010 at 7:15 am #309821lou345
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
Many Thanks for your responses.
I can remove the bolt in tear drop using ratchet. But not sure how I can acess the other 2 bolts holding motor. They face the other way. Will racthet do it ?
I have a basic multi meter. How would I test the motor?
Thanks again
LouJanuary 24, 2010 at 10:36 am #309822CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
The best way to remove the motor is to tilt the machine about 45 degrees
(lean against cabinet with a towel in between for example) and access from underneath.
Removing the tear drop rear panel will give more light.
You can then remove the two 10mm bolts with a combo of spanner and socket.
Cut cable tie holding plastic shield
Remove earth cable and motor connector.
With a suitable large flat bladed spanner lever the motor away from the spigots and the motor will fall away.
Be careful as its easy to let the motor drop.you should get I believe about 4ohms across the two brushes if they are in good contact.
Easy to check and remove/replace
As always PLUG OUT……….
January 24, 2010 at 1:51 pm #309823lou345
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
Thanks very much CJA.
I am going to ask something really stupid. Do I tilt it forward or backwards.
I assume it is forwards to let the motor housing drops slightly forward?
Also is this the same a letting the motor drop down? ( saw it mentioned in one the threads elsewhere) I have also seen some replacement motors for around £130. Hope it doesn’t come to that
Thanks again
LouJanuary 24, 2010 at 1:57 pm #309824nomadPaul
ParticipantYes , it is tilted forward . Be careful dependant on the floor. If its shiny tiles , you might want to put something under the front feet to prevent slippage. By tipping the appliance forward , as well as giving you easier access , it causes the drum to push forward slightly giving a touch more room between the drum/motor and the rear casing.
January 24, 2010 at 1:58 pm #309825CJAPeterborough
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
tilting froward gives you a few mm more clearance to get at the bolts
The motor sits on four spigots -two of which are bolted.Once the bolts are removed -a bit of leverage between the spigot
and the motor apertures is usually enough for the motor to come away from its mounts……..you can then investigate further
January 24, 2010 at 5:08 pm #309826lou345
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
thanks very much. Will update you once I have the brushes on Tuesday or Wed hopefully.
One last stupid question re continuity test. Once I have replaced brushes, I set the meter on the continuity setting and take a reading by touching each probe to the carbon brushes?
LouJanuary 24, 2010 at 5:14 pm #309827Penguin45
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
Through the terminals where the motor plug goes. The circuits are in pairs, ie terminals 1+2, 3+4 and 5+6.
Penguin45.
January 24, 2010 at 5:24 pm #309828lou345
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
thank you. There is a 6 pin ( I think plug) connector lead which I have removed from the motor. And since the pairs are 1+2 etc, it shouldn’t matter if I do test on motor pins from left to right.
Also forgot to thank nomad paul for his comments re the sharp edges on teardrop, Unfortunately for me, I read it too late. ( not too bad a cut though( But other should take note
Thanks again.
LouJanuary 26, 2010 at 2:36 pm #309829lou345
ParticipantRe: Bosh WFX2867 Carbon brush replacement
Dear All
Some good news. Have replaced brushes and motor is turning. But as soon as I switched on there was rasping sound from the motor. The rasping sound was present when I manually tested the motor before re- installing, so perhaps it has something to do with angle of brushes. I was pretty certain to make sure the angle was correct bu twill check again. Is there a wearing in period for the brushes?
Many Thanks
Lou.January 26, 2010 at 5:00 pm #309830nomadPaul
Participantit sounds like you’ve put a brush or both in the wrong way. The longer edge of the brush should be on the same side as the connector.
i.e on your motor , looking at it from the brush end , the connector pushes on from the right so the longer edge is on the right too.
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