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Simon46.
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August 27, 2010 at 7:17 am #56830
Simon46
ParticipantHoover washer dryer cracked at rear drum half near pressure vessel. Will Plastic steel hold if applied from outside or is it advisable to debor the hole first then apply the plastic steel or plastic steel then debor over it?
S.
August 27, 2010 at 7:23 am #329026Martin
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub

Use only this straight on. Debor is flexi glue just for attaching rubber so don’t go near a hole with that stuff!
August 27, 2010 at 7:59 am #329027Simon46
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
Ta Martin. Thats the stuff i will use. Many thanks.
Simon
August 27, 2010 at 9:47 am #329028leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
Trouble with stuff like that is it sets hard and inflexible. The plastic tub meanwhile is slightly flexible. I wouldn’t trust it unless the machine is in a place where leakage could do no harm. Could even be worth calling manufacturer and checking with them exactly what plastics it will stick to. Bet they won’t be up for paying compensation!
Mike.August 27, 2010 at 12:19 pm #329029Martin
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
It works Mike, trust me on that. As far as plastic tubs being flexible, this product too has similar properties and is as good as you’ll get to solve the problem. Application though has to be well thought out and the proverbial ‘good clean surface’ applies here more than anywhere. Holes in tubs are serious fractures more often than not but in almost all cases with a washing machine it is due to coin type damage in an area that is a generally weak or exposed. Which can so easily be filled quite successfully provided you apply it properly of course.
In this specific case, it may well be best applied from BOTH sides. That would require Simon46 to first remove a drum paddle to access it on the inside (if that’s possible?). Clean the affected area, poke on the putty liberally from both sides, thick in the centre and smoothen out toward the perimeter. Leave to set for 24hrs before water testing, of course!:D
Regarding the “compensation” issue, now that can be tricky and possibly a hard to define subject. My personal take on instances where the drum can be successfully patched up in this way then I always point out to the owner of the appliance that it has been “patched-up!” That the work has been carried out with his/her approval and without any guarantee and further use of the appliance is at their risk only! Furthermore that the only solution as far as me and my company are concerned, is to replace the outer tub/drum assembly and the cost to do that would be £xxx. Essentially for me, on my invoice/repair docket, I do not state that I have ‘patched it up’ AT ALL! I merely quote the need for a new outer drum/tub assembly (whatever) and state the price. No come-back, no com-pen-sa-shun! 8)
August 27, 2010 at 4:39 pm #329030Simon46
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
Mine was a hole as if a vegetable knife had stabbed it. no leaks after but proceded to double debor over it as well.
S.
August 27, 2010 at 5:26 pm #329031leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
I once fixed a hole about 10mm in dia. on the top of a WMA tub with a similar product. Six months or so later the plug had jumped out, water had trickled down and got into motor and blew up the board. (At least I assume that’s what happened, given the plug had come out.) I’m wary now.
Mike.August 29, 2010 at 12:48 pm #329032SimonCD
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
I have a portasol gas soldering iron with variable temperature. it comes with a knife type bit, with the temp turned down a bit it melts the type of plastic used to make tubs really well. Try melting some old bits of tub together first for practice and you’ll see it really works!
August 30, 2010 at 6:48 pm #329033leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Patching a holed tub
Sounds good Simon. Think you should add it to the tips and tricks sticky.
Mike. -
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