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- This topic has 13 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 6 months ago by
clockworkone.
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October 12, 2010 at 3:19 pm #57921
clockworkone
Participantbeing fairly new to this game i was wondering do you guys have any tips on removing these heater elements. had to remove bra wire today and easiest(?) option seemed to be h/element. it was stuck solid(plastic drum) checked to see if i had an element in van i had not so gave up on that idea and managed to get wire to sump with a bit of shaking about. is there a knack to these.paul
October 12, 2010 at 4:05 pm #332668Martin
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
Most elements in plastic tub machines are in fact the simplest to remove. Once the 10mm nut is loosened and tapped towards the tub (releasing the compression on the gasket) then a simple twist with a narrow blade screwdriver between the heater plate and the tub should release the heater enough to pull it out.
The exceptions to this are the likes of (say) Hotpoint WM series machines where the rubber grommet slips inside the tub and the only way to remove the heater is once the front drum plate is taken off completely.
So enough on that, but do please be more specific as to the make and model number of the machine you have experienced difficulty with and I’m sure we can elaborate further on the subject and assist you further. 🙂
P.S. Taking heaters out is the best way of removing bra wires and stuff. However, it is NOT a good practice to attempt refitting the heater afterwards. Better to renew the heater altogether otherwise your handy work can come back and bite your bum should a flooded house or block of flats be your certain undoing!:lesson:
October 12, 2010 at 4:26 pm #332669clockworkone
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
thanks for that martin it was a wm machine. i had a look to see had i a new element. only when i realised i had not did i change tactics.thanks again
October 12, 2010 at 4:30 pm #332670Martin
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
clockworkone wrote:thanks for that martin it was a wm machine.
Well I never…there you go then.:wink:
Mind you it’s a 5 minute job taking the front plate off so you could leave the heater in place while you take the plate off, fish out the wire and reassemble.(with a bit of Debor of course)…!! 🙂
October 12, 2010 at 5:41 pm #332671iadom
ModeratorRe: heater element removal
Martin wrote:and reassemble.(with a bit of Debor of course)…!! 🙂
So you are the person I regularly curse for gumming up the drum seal with Debor, its a bloody nuisance trying to get the front out and all the old adhesive cleaned off if you have to remove it in the future. 😈
A new drum seal is cheap enough and something I always fit when opening up a WM drum, unless it is a fairly new one of course.
October 12, 2010 at 6:54 pm #332672wizard
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
Tut tut Martin, keep your debor in the tube. I’ve also cursed engineers using it for that ! Wizard.
October 12, 2010 at 7:35 pm #332673nelson
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
As you were Martin, I always debor them back in and in truth when I visit machines that have already had it done, they don’t cause me any heart ache, it generally peels away easily enough. In fact I find it quite relaxing, a bit like popping bubble wrap 😀
October 13, 2010 at 12:59 am #332674leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
I use silicone to seal the gap when the seal’s got a bit compressed. Debor could be damaging to your health. So could silicone probably, but with less euphoric side effects. Anyway, silicone’s better ‘cos it doesn’t shrink as it cures 😉 .
As to not being able to get the grommet out when it slips inside, I’ve very rarely not managed it without too much trouble. Get a grip on one end of it with loooong nosed pliers and puuulll. Alternatively put your 90deg long noses in through the ntc hole in the grommet and wriggle and pull.
I’ve never had a leak from a heater element put back in, but I do use an adequate quantity of Debor in those situations.
Mike.October 13, 2010 at 7:19 am #332675Martin
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
nelson wrote:As you were Martin,
Debor is easy to put on and easy to peel off as nelson concurs. Can’t recall the last time I fitted a front plate gasket on a WM, there’s no need. Just a liberal dose of Debor and clip her back together…lovely job! 8)
October 13, 2010 at 7:27 am #332676Martin
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:I’ve never had a leak from a heater element put back in, but I do use an adequate quantity of Debor in those situations.
Don’t try that trick on a Zanussi, Bosch or Hotpoint though Mike as the shallow rubber gromments will not adhere and soon as the machine heats up to 60 degs plus the element pops out as if lubricated with Vaseline!
I carry a Staples plastic storage box with around 25 assorted heaters on the van so I keep my Debor only for WM front plates. 😈
October 13, 2010 at 9:54 am #332677leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
The problem you had with pattern elements doesn’t apply to me because I put the originals back in. My situation is probably different from yours because there is zero limescale around here, so the only reasons elements ever go are drum failure or six inch nails bashing around in the drum 😆 .
Mike.October 13, 2010 at 10:22 am #332678iadom
ModeratorRe: heater element removal
The 168172 tub seal is just £2.90 from MP, the list price is £12.76 so I prefer to do the job properly and not leave glue oozing out all over the place whilst making a little extra profit at the same time. 😉
Jim.
October 13, 2010 at 10:22 am #332679Phidom
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
I sometimes struggle for ages trying to get the rubber back in on an old heater and thought it was just my ineptitude. It is therefore consoling to hear that others routinely fit new heaters in such circumstances. One of the few neat features on the big drum Hotpoints is that you can take a paddle off instead of disturbing the heater.
October 13, 2010 at 10:50 am #332680leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: heater element removal
The reason you struggle Phidom is because the grommet has taken on the compressed shape. It’s simple enough to squeeze it back in if you completely slide it down from the bracket and push one end in first. The next bit’s a tad tricky because you have to keep it from pushing right into the drum while you slide the element back through it. Easy with a little practice and the 90 deg long nose are a boon. This allows you to offer a more economical service over your competitors yet make more profit per job than they do.
Mike. -
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