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These relate to the 1607W … although the first question is general enough to refer to all washing machines 😉
1. The user guide repeatedly mentions that clothes worn against the skin should be washed at 60C – how does this fit with using lower temperatures such as 30C or 40C with current powders?
2. (specific to the machine) some outdoor clothes require careful washing, such as not using fabric conditioners as they tend to clog up the fibres and inhibit wicking properties. Recommendations are to use pure soap flakes – but the packet says to dissolve 30-40g in a litre of warm water, then add that to the initial wash cycle. The 1607W user guide says not to open the soap drawer while the machine is operating – is it OK to open it just enough to pour in the soap solution?
Re: ISE10 washer questions
Hi Gareth,
The whole low temperature washing thing has been a subject of debate within the industry for a number of years. You have to remember that the appliance industry really does move at glacial pace, if not slower.
In the mid to late eighties the “low temperature” of 40ËšC came in and loads of people said it wasn’t as effective. Detergent and washing technology caught up and, it is pretty much there.
In the interim, someone found a hole in the sky above the Arctic and then that we had far too many CO2’s and we had a problem. So, there has been a huge drive towards more reduction in energy.
The only problem is that, as basic high school chemistry teaches us, that you need three elements to wash pretty much anything clean of detritus and grease etc and, given that a lot of what’s on your clothing is grease from your skin (that you can’t see as dirt) this is relevant, you need water, a detergent to dislodge and hold the deposits in suspension and agitation to help with the mechanical wash process.
Within that there are degrees of efficiency on the detergent, mechanical wash action, volume of water relative to whatever you’re washing and of course, your personal preference.
Personally I’d recommend a minimum of 40ËšC and, if possible (especially whites, bedding and towelling) at 60ËšC or higher. At 60ËšC and above you kill off just about everything bacteria bugs and mites wise and this is why there is that recommendation.
I don’t use fabric conditioner and don’t especially recommend it. AS one of the lab guys pointed out very nicely, it’s a big tub of grease with perfumes in it essentially.
The only softener that is not grease based is Bold 2-in-1, which is clay based.
I would not recommend either for the type of outdoors wear that you’re talking about here as they will do exactly what you describe.
The drawer can be opened but, for the safety of all pets and children as well as to save from being sued, we have to state that you can’t do it. Stupid, I know, but it’s the world we live in these days.
If it was me and I was taking personal responsibility or needed to do that with certain items, I’d not hesitate for a second.
HTH
K.
Re: ISE10 washer questions
Thanks for the helpful comments. Another question …
How hard should it be to shut the door? I suspect the reason may be to ensure a watertight seal but the force needed is more than I would have expected or feel comfortable with, (unless ‘they all do that, sir’). It’s hard to describe how much force I need to use, but if someone was shutting the door of my car with the same amount of force I would wince.
Re: ISE10 washer questions
Sorry Gareth, I don’t understand. Closing the door is easy, no more so than closing any door.
The only thing that’s different is that the door moves with the tub.
K.
Re: ISE10 washer questions
Hi Gareth
Just thought I would add a note to your second issue on clothes with wicking properties etc.
I have an ISE10 and wear a lot of synthetic clothes for cycling and running – I use a liquid soap detergent (Nikwax basewash) designed for cleaning base layers and wicking clothes.
When purchasing the ISE, I was supplied with a little plastic adapter for the soap dispensing drawer which allows the use of liquid detergents so I can now set the machine for a sythentic wash, pour the liquid in the dispensing drawer and hit start then walk away.
Adam
Re: ISE10 washer questions
kwatt wrote:Closing the door is easy, no more so than closing any door.
I have to use more force than on any other washer we’ve owned or that I’ve used elsewhere, which is the reason for my concern.
Re: ISE10 washer questions
This issue is as K said, the door is connected to the tub and not the outer chassis when you close it.
What this means is that the tub moves when you shut the door and so ‘absorbs’ some of the energy used to shut the door.
In essence there is a nack to shutting the door which is more akin to ‘slamming’ it shut.
Hope this helps.
Adam
Re: ISE10 washer questions
There is a bit of a knack to it due to the fact that the door is directly attached to the main tank. So, it moves with the entire assembly which is different.
Push the door over till it touches the panel, sharp push and it’ll close perfectly every time. You shouldn’t need to slam the door or use any sort of real force at all.
There are a plethora of reasons for this being the way that it is, all of which are good IMO. Such as, no door bellows so no bacteria or dirt trapped, less likelihood of clothes getting trapped and damaged (never seen it on a 10), maximised space in the drum as there’s no intrusion by the door glass, more durability on the door parts and so on.
The 1607 also has a slightly redesigned door with a double hinge to allow wider door opening as well as an additional guide intended to locate the door better, make it easier to operate and improve durability by providing more protection to the door lock mechanism.
You would not believe the care and attention to detail. 😉
HTH
K.
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