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jnsnsa.
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December 15, 2010 at 1:16 pm #59596
jnsnsa
ParticipantI have a seven year old Whirlpool ADP 5340 dishwasher that is generally used only once every week or two. It was fine until a few months ago at which time it started acting up, first occasionally and now always.
Here’s what happens: After I pick (any) program and push the start button, it drains for a second or so, then stops, the start light and program light go off, they then turn on again and it drains again for a second or so, then off again, then on again — and so on forever. (At the beginning it would eventually settle down and start to wash.)
I have checked that there is water supply at the faucet. The inlet hose has a solenoid valve at the connection to the faucet. I have NOT yet checked that valve (I’m not quite sure how to check it.) I also pulled the bottom panel off of the dishwasher and made sure that the styrofoam float which I figure is there to protect against water spills — was not stuck. Everything else looked good but I did not do any other checks yet.
Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks in advance!
Update: I checked the inlet valve at the faucet — opens the water when I put on 220V. During this on/off cycling of the drain pump the voltage from the controller to the valve is only 38V AC. This may mean that the controller is gone. But — maybe it’s one of the other valves/sensors etc.
Thanks to anyone for any thoughts.
December 22, 2010 at 2:14 pm #338841jnsnsa
ParticipantRe: Updated: Whirlpool ADP 5340 continuously drains and stop
Maybe I can ask a simpler question:
If the water inlet valve connector is removed from the control board and I read 37 volts AC as the voltage at the connection to the control board (when the dishwasher is supposed to be filling) — rather than 220V, does this necessarily mean that the control board is malfunctioning? Is the inlet valve meant to be run at 220 Volts always or does the control board sometimes try opening it at a lower voltage?
In other words I’m trying to figure out if it’s the control board, the inlet valve (which does open at 220V) or something else. (I have checked nearly all other sensors except the flow meter.)
Thanks
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