Bosch exxcel SGS43A18GB/38

I would really appreciate if someone could confirm if I have the correct replacement controller for the model above:

Original broken unit. yellow label, white enclosure:
SIEMENS 5WK57804
10 11 02 10 40 01
5 600 048 683 AI01

Have been sold a (supposedly) new and suitable replacement. white label, half black/half white enclosure:
SIEMENS 5WK57829
10.05.05 21 44 Typ G.2
5 600 048 694 AI 2.1.01

If you’ve got the patience for the full story read on…

Our dishwasher stopped working mid-cycle. I called a guy advertised in the paper and he came round and said it needed a new controller. He fitted a new ‘spare’ one he had, ran a rinse cycle ok and said it was fixed. The quick 35deg wash worked but the longer eco50 and auto 55-65 would not end. I now realise this is the ‘1min problem’ symptoms.

I had a look at the old controller and it’d really gone bang (much worse than any of the images i’ve now found on this site of other faulty PCBs): delaminated PCB, 2inch soot/scorch area and ceramic casing of a few componants has disintegrated. I’ll get a picture up soon. As we were out at the time I’m relieved the whole unit didn’t catch fire.

I explained what was happening with the cycles not finishing and he said he had another controller in his garage which he’d fit when he had time to find it. This was eventually fitted but did not solve the problem and the times for the cycles changed eg. quick 35deg went from 35mins (on original and first replacement) to 55 -not sure if this provides a clue for my question above. I came across this site and saw some topics which looked similar so thought it must be possible to fix and that he’d need to look at what caused the controller to go bang in the first place.

Reluctantly he came back a 3rd time and asked if we’d prefer the first module again as at least we’d get a working quick35 cycle but i said i wanted him to fix the problem or give us our money back. He swapped them around again a few times as he saw the problem with the cycle not finishing, gave my girlfriend (who was in at the time) some grief and eventually after I asked if he’d been on here or looked up the problem elsewhere (he apparantly had but had not posted anything) agreed to give us some of our money back and said it wasn’t worth his time removing the module and we could keep it.

I’ve now got some spare time and although can’t justify getting a (real)professional to look at it I would like to repair it rather than see it end up in landfill as I’m sure its close to working.

I’ve read through as many of the topics I can find regarding the 1min problem and I think i’ve ruled out the three usual problems:

1) gunked matrix or inlet tube/impellor
2) blown heater
3) Controller PCB fault

as..

>Matrix is clean (no debris were found)
>level sensor (red cylinder) is not activating and sufficient water seems to be inside (covers square metal filter grate in base) if i stop it mid cycle.
>Cleaned hose running to impellor from level sensor and checked impellor is clear (no debris were found )
>Looked over ‘new’ controller for dry joints and can’t see anything suspicious.
>Measured heating element 23 ohm when disconnected so not blown.

So i’ve concluded:
1) the controller might not be compatible.
2) the controller is not managing heating process correctly/sensing heating correctly. If i run an auto 55-65 and open after 20mins its steamy hot inside. If i run a quick35 the voltage across the heater is abour 60V AC during wash cycle ramping up to full 240V when the 1min problem becomes apparent during rinse but the inside doesn’t appear to get hot at this point.

Is there any way to test the sensor (assuming its a thermistor of some sort)?
Is there something up with the componant that sits between heater and control unit mounted between the two prongs on the heater (think it might be a triac??)?

I would really appreciate any suggestions to investigate further or anything anyone thinks I’ve overlooked

Cheers,

Ian