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fireinthehearth.
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May 13, 2013 at 9:22 am #75403
fireinthehearth
ParticipantOK so I have the “no power” problem reported in earlier posts.
I am working without power on the task list of Capacitor, etc as suggested.First hurdle: The selector switch refuses to come off.
Is there a knack to its removal?
I was hoping for a simple push fit but this seems not to be the case.OK…so it was a push fit after all. Came off with a very loud crack but all is well with the knob.
Continuity assured to electronic boards. Does anyone know if there are any on board fuses, standard or thermal?
kind regards and thanks in advance…John
May 13, 2013 at 1:17 pm #394810Specialist01269
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Hi John: Just searched through your posts but can’t see any reference to this problem.
Is there any power at all to the machine ? any lights on the front or anything ?May 13, 2013 at 1:25 pm #394811fireinthehearth
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
no lights, no display, no error codes.
The other problems were not mine but on the forum in 2010/2011. They seemed to be similar but no real resolution reported after the suggestion to prove out the components on the power path to the electronics.
Thanks for the response JohnMay 13, 2013 at 1:34 pm #394812Specialist01269
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Hi John No problem. So from your post: You’ve done a continuity test from the mains plug on both poles, through the filter and on / off switch & then to the control pcb ? Did you use the continuity buzzer on a Multimeter or the Low ohms range ?
If you used the continuity check on a Multimeter, could you please re-check using the low ohms range of the meter. Some Multimeter continuity ranges will tell you the circuit is good with up to 500 Ohms resistance.Have to nip out for about an hour but will be back & hopefully help you through the problem.
Andy
May 13, 2013 at 2:05 pm #394813fireinthehearth
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Thanks for that…multi has been set on 200ohm range and reads low ohms (less than 1) on LIVE plug pin to Suppressor, then to other side of Suppressor, then on to control switch input on pcb. Same for neutral.
Hope to hear from you later.May 13, 2013 at 4:04 pm #394814Specialist01269
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Hi John: Think it’s time to carefully remove the control board & check for any Blown parts / Burn marks etc. Please make sure to keep good notes of where each connector fits & which way round they go.
May 13, 2013 at 4:15 pm #394815fireinthehearth
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Thanks, I’ll do exactly that and take photo’s and get back to you.
Is the main control board a known suspect in this area?
There is also a pcb that handles the heater.
I’ve checked the red plunger on the resettable thermostat on the element housing inasmuch as seeing if it can be reset. It doesn’t go back in so have assumed it is normal position.
Kind regards JohnMay 13, 2013 at 4:22 pm #394816Specialist01269
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Hi John: Yes unfortunately the boards are known for Hot spots & dry joints, lets hope you find something easy to fix.
May 14, 2013 at 11:55 am #394817fireinthehearth
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
OK things I now know…there is no need to take the switch top off as the electronics and front plate are treated as one integral item.
Taking the front plate off is very simple and just requires that the wiring loom is taken off at the plugs (photograph connexions first).
I had another of these machines (not used at present by offspring) and replacing the entire front plate unit has brought my machine back to life.
Front plate is a pricey component to buy but when you know it does carry a fault you can buy the new one with confidence.May 14, 2013 at 1:01 pm #394818Specialist01269
ParticipantRe: zwd12270w1
Hi John: Well done, so it was the control board. Did you find any discoloured areas?, Check your PM’s left some info for you.
Andy -
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