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Hotpoint WD420G s/n 33108237
I had a problem with the heater 3 years ago but nobody on this site responded to my need for help. But I fixed it anyway.
Hopefully a kind member might help me this time.
Last night my washer/dryer would not drain.
Error code lights 2 and 4 came on which is pressure switch jammed on full or pump blocked (check pump and switch)
I drained system and removed bits of plastic from filter.
Restarted system and no error lights. So far so good.
I left it to today to check it out fully as it was past midnight. Anyway It fills and drys but it still won’t drain so I just end up with hot wet clothes.
I removed drain pump and it’s clean as a whistle and rotor springs every 1/4 turn and seemed okay and not loose.
I did not check if drain pump was open circuit because my mate borrowed my fluke but I will check that tomorrow and see if the coil shows the correct ohms (I believe around 165 ohms). Either that or i will get one from work
I blew Down the pressure switch tube to see if there was a blockage and it seemed clear and blew bubbles at the drain end.
I’m not sure how to test the pressure switch but when I blew into it and it seemed to make a noise as if it as switching. I did not open it up.. I can check if its switching when I get my fluke back.
So my question is. If the pressure switch is switching and the drain pump shows around 165 ohms and the wires to the drain pump show 240vac when set on the drain out cycle, i would presume the control pcb is ok. Is this correct?
I only want to remove the control pcb to check for damaged components if the drain pump is not receiving 240vac.
What else should I look for?
And is blowing into the pressure switch a reliable way to test it?
Btw I manufacture scientific electronic equipment and test our instruments when faulty or back for repair including 100amp systems. So please don’t take me for novice in electronics. On the other hand Pumps, pressure switches and filters are all areas I don’t have much experience in.
Any assistance would be appreciated
Thank you
Re: Hotpoint WD420g won’t drain
Missed your post in 2010, I was cruising round the Canaries at the time. 8)
TBH. You did answer most of your own questions in that first post and subsequently repaired the machine.
As with this post, until you have done the tests you have suggested it is difficult to advise further .
Blowing up the pressure switch can be done to check the normal open/closed level but you should not blow too hard or you may damage the switch. The second level in the switch is the overfill level and you do not hear a click when that is tripped. Pumps don’t often go O/C but if they do fail they can often damage the pcb.
Best to do your tests and report your findings. 🙂
Re: Hotpoint WD420g won’t drain
Thanks for the reply iadom.
Pump measures 165ohms but is not getting 240vac when drain programme is selected. Drum is empty so maybe pump won’t switch on if there’s no water, I am not sure?
If the pressure switch failed would that stop the pump kicking in? It’s an easy swap if it is and cheap but no fault lights are showing.
When I cleared out the filter the large flat pieces of plastic did not look like it clogged the filter. There was no gunk to be seen anywhere apart from a 20p and a button. Pump was also clear of gunk or debris. Water rate might be reduced but it still would have got through.
This washer dryer never fit in my kitchen anyway but it’s lasted a long time and I can no longer be bothered with it. I could probably fault find the pcb but that might mean I am stuck with it for another few years. So I have spent enough time on it.
I am now after a narrow width replacement washer or washer/dryer. Follow this link for details
buying-advice/narrow-width-washing-machine-must-580mm-less-t79062.html#p384587
Thanks for help
Ian
Re: Hotpoint WD420g won’t drain
Don’t know to much about that Zanussi but I wouldn’t touch a Candy with a very long pole.
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