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Hi all . my dryer is humming and the drum isnt rotating , if I open the door and turn it manualy all seems ok and smooth .. on removing the sides I can see a capacitor is there a chance this needs replacing or is the motor shot … I got a meter to test but don’t no what voltages to look for before and after the capacitor any help apreciated
Re: Proline TDC7A
It’s a Hotpoint/Creda based unit, capacitor is very likely to be the cause of fault. Cheap enough to try one of same rating.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HDRe: Proline TDC7A
Click on the STORE link above, go to tumble dryers, put capacitor in the search box and select the one with the rating that matches yours.
Re: Proline TDC7A
Big thanks to IADOM the cap was the culprit … I replaced it with a 8uf capn … is this ok as the print had rubbed of the capacitor itself … I googled about and everywhere staited it was 8 uf… now however when I select full heat its tripping the electric, and cannot find the short with the heater to earth with the full heat switch on, is there something im missing ???
Re: Proline TDC7A
Just checked, correct capacitor is a 7uf. That shouldn’t cause it to trip though.
Most common cause is dampness on the heating elements. This is caused by a failure to clean the condensor at very regular intervals. It should be blasted through with a hosepipe, pressure washer is even better every few weeks. If you don’t then fluff and gunge gets clogged in the channel at the back of the condensor chamber. You also need to reach right back into the chamber and run your fingers along the drainage channel at the back to clear any soggy fluff.If you remove the back and there are signs of dampness at the bottom of the small back panel that is a sure sign of this fault.
A prolonged blast of hot air from a hairdryer is usually enough to dry the elements out.
You need to be able to check for insulation leaks, often a small, cheap multimeter is not good enough for this task, a meggar is the best piece of kit.Also need to make sure the heater wiring harness is not chafing where it passes through the back panel.
Re: Proline TDC7A
Found the short circuit to be where the heater coil come through the insulating card and was fouling the chassis … all is good for now and I did clear the wet soggy fluff from the base .
What I’ve now found is the plastic/nylon bushes are missing from the front valance so I’ve ordered some of those, as said its working at the moment but with a heavy grumble when turning the opposite direction so lets hope this fixes this ?
Re: Proline TDC7A
You need to have a close look at the black plastic jockey pulley. That is one source of noise, loose fans can also cause noise but if it appears to be worse in one direction then the jockey pulley would be the first thing to check.
You will really enjoy changing that if it is needed but even that is better than letting the pulley collapse and ruining the belt. That is a real PITA to change. :rolls:
Re: Proline TDC7A
ive greased both jokey wwheels to no avail … ive now fitted the front plastic shim/bearers on the front and its still the same … tbh its worse since I posted the last post to present
Re: Proline TDC7A
Jokey wheels……
This machine only has one JOCKEY pulley, mounted on the end of the drive motor.
You may be referring to the drum front bearing pulleys. A very poor design that was removed and replaced by the shim type bearings.
They did reintroduce them on some recent models but the official fix was to remove both of the wheels completely and just use the pads.
Re: Proline TDC7A
and im running both and still have this ??? but I will check the jockey wheel you mentioned but it did seem all fine when I gave it a inspection … off this thread are there any ppl that deal with the huebsch coin op models of dryer you know of
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