LG F1256QD

Re: LG F1256QD

could be heater ntc out of calibration ?

Re: LG F1256QD

Right, basic wm principle of heating.

You have a tank of water (tub), a brain (main pcb), a water level sensor (pressure switch – p/s), a water heater (element), and a water temperature sensor (ntc).

you turn on the washing machine. The p/s tells the pcb tub is empty, so the pcb feeds electricity to the water valve solenoid. this turns it on and lets water fill. the p/s then tells the pcb when the tub has enough water, therefore the pcb then stops feeding electricity to the valve, and it shuts. All the time this is happening the pcb is also feeding electricity thru the ntc and back into the pcb. The ntc is basically a temperature affected resistor. So because the pcb is measuring how much electricity it is recieving back, it can work out how cold/warm the water is. you have an element that is fed electricity based on the ntc resistance, so when the pcb is being told the water is not warm enough it will keep feeding the element electricity. When the resistance of the ntc has changed enough to signify the water is warm enough, the pcb then works out it no longer needs to heat the water and cuts the electricity to the element off. Just like the warm air in an oven tells the thermostat to click on or off. OK?

However NTCs can go out of calibration, through limescale, damage or corrosion, poor quality or just age. This could make the pcb think your water is say -65*c , instead of 25*c and therefore will continue to heat the water until the resistance is in line with what it thinks 30, 40 or 60*c should be!

hope that little essay explains how your machine works.

PS you have actually connected the supply feed to the cold fill tap? the most common solution to boilwashes on all programs is usually being connected to a hot feed!

the easy way to tell is to put the machine on for a rinse only program, and then feel the inlet hose/copper pipe after the machine has finished its several stop-start fills after about 5 minutes since putting it on. if your pipes or hose is warmer than just cool that is why. If you have had plumbing work, kitchen modification or even just new flooring put down, in fact anything that could require the machine to be unplumbed, and it so happens to correlate with when the lg started to malfunction then thats my bet

Re: LG F1256QD

usually situated now in a hole in the element bracket, and normally supplied with a new element. element position is in the rear of the tub. So if youre gonna give it a go, might as well replace both, I think they are about £30ish, give the ukwg shop a call tomorrow, because the part isnt listed on the website so they will need to load it onto their system but shouldnt take them more than a cpl of days to get it to you.

Re: LG F1256QD

No worries, but please be aware spencer that this is only me suggesting an alternative part to the pcb, its not in any way guaranteed to sort your problem, as a pcb is still a possible culprit, its just as an engineer, the first place I would look at would be the ntc, and therefore test it accordingly and make a decision on whether to replace the ntc/heater first based on whether the test results seem iffy which is where experience comes into things.

What is worth remembering is that wash elements do not tend to last the 8+ years they used to and your lg is probably 4+ years old by now, which means you have not lost out on anything if the pcb is at fault, because you will probably require a new element at somepoint in the near future. Hope this helps!