- This topic has 10 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 7 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
I feel badly let down by ISE. The insurance backed 10 year warranty (which made me consider ISE in the first place) was a con.
I now have a 3 1/2 year old tumble drier thats nothing but a heap of rubbish. I have just paid £85 to the supplier of the machine to replace the motor start capacitor (symptom, drum wouldn’t spin). now sone 3 weeks later (and only really using it for the first time after repair) the machine leaks water over the floor.
The machines are impossible to work on without taking the back off which means the drum is now unsupported so no live fault finding.
Have tested the pump and float and cleaned all that out. adjusted microswitch lever so tank not as full before pump switches on switch on.
Machine will now work but trips out on an F10 fault (tank full) but there is almost nothing in it. I
I am reluctant to pay another call out charge for this heap so am toying with the idea of selling the bits for spares.
Anybody interested?
Re: ISE cd601w
He probably does, but this fault will be unrelated to the motor start capacitor so another call out fee and repair charge assuming he can source spares if required. I’m not prepared to pump another £50+ into this machine
Re: ISE cd601w
How come it unrelated? It didn’t start before, you haven’t used it now it leaks. Did it leak before then and you failed to tell them? Or is this possibly connected to the last repair? Perhaps you could put it to them anyway.
Re: ISE cd601w
I have this same dryer (4 years old) and the same problem. Originally it seemed to leak on the floor occasionally but now it is just stopping with a F10 (tank full) code. If I remove the condenser the tank at the bottom is full. If I sponge this out the dryer will work again until it gets full again. So something is stopping this from pumping into the bottle at the top.
I know ISE have gone bust so a warranty fix is out of the question. I’m not really sure what to do now. I wouldn’t mind trying to fix it myself if that is possible. I have got as far as removing the top cover by myself but I couldn’t figure out how to remove the back cover where presumably I could access the pump. Are there any instructions for how to do this?
I’m not sure if there is anyone near me (Leeds) who would even try to repair one of these dryers but if it’s going to involve spending money that might not fix the issue I’m leaning towards buying a cheap Beko dryer from John Lewis with a 2 year guarantee. Sad because I hate the ‘disposable’ culture but buying an expensive so called ‘built to last’ product seems to have been a big waste of hundreds of pounds.
Re: ISE cd601w
I found that I had to undo the nut holding the drum shaft into the bearing on the back cover then let the drum drop. You can’t get to the pump with the back cover on. I found that the pump would work fine and so did the micro switch when tested independently. However when put back together it would trip out on F10 fault. Was not prepared to spend any more money on it.
The ISE replaced an hotpoint CD80 which also leaked water.
The trouble with cheap machines is that you can’t level them ( and my floor is not level). The design on condenser dryers is such that it needs to be level or water does not go directly into the container. Even on the ISE there was a large gap between the discharge pipe and container.
I’m so glad I didn’t buy the washing machine.
I’ve resurrected the hotpoint. I’d look to buy a Miele when I replace itRe: ISE cd601w
I have the ISE washer and dishwasher too :-/
Touch wood they have been OK so far.Thanks for the suggestion. I guess if I’m thinking of scrapping the machine I might as well try getting the back cover off first to see if a good clean fixes anything.
I’m put off buying expensive machines altogether now. Like the idea but a cheap Beko will cost a third of what I paid for the ISE and if it’s guaranteed for 2 years when the ISE only managed 4 then it’s hard to justify paying more. Maybe for a washer there are performance issues to consider but dry clothes are dry clothes…
Re: ISE cd601w
I’m sure I could level a cheap machine with a few thin scraps of wood under the legs…
Re: ISE cd601w
It’s probably just the lifter pump blocked with fluff.
Get to that, clear it and the problem should be solved. The manual is on here somewhere that shows you where it is.
K.
Re: ISE cd601w
OK I got the back off eventually. Bad news is there was no obvious dirt or blockages around the drain pump or in the tubes. I tested the float switch/microswitch works OK using a multimeter and some water 🙂
The pump reads 203 ohm resistance across its terminals. I found a bit of paper stuck in the top of the dryer which says the resistance should be 110 ohm +/- 10{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} – does this indicate a fault with the pump or just with my cheap multimeter?
I see I can buy a replacement pump for 40 quid plus delivery but I don’t want to do this if it’s not likely to fix the problem.
Re: ISE cd601w
OK I’m more confused now. I put the back cover back on and thought I would run the dryer with the lid off to see what happened.
It immediately started to pump water into the bottle – so the motor must be OK. I then got a jug of clean water and started to pour it down the back of the bottle so it runs down into the bottom tank. It didn’t get pumped back. After a little more water and a few seconds the dryer stops with a F10 error. Switch the dryer off and on again and it starts pumping. Repeat the water and I get the F10 again. It seems pressing the start button twice to restart the dryer kicks it in to running the pump again. (But when I tried this yesterday when I was actually doing laundry this didn’t work, it ran for a few seconds and stopped with another F10).So, does all this indicate a controller problem (or something else that I won’t be able to fix?
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.