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- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 5 months ago by
mpt600.
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AuthorPosts
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October 29, 2015 at 10:07 pm #86522
mpt600
ParticipantHello, can anyone help with this one?
Our Samsung fridge freezer suddenly won’t cool or freeze; the fridge and freezer don’t cool, although I can hear the pump running.
The display flashes “-19”, which is what the freezer is set to.
Turning it off and on seems to get it cooling temporarily, but it doesn’t last.
Is it something to do with the defrost cycle?
Thanks in advance.
Mike
October 30, 2015 at 11:51 am #432005admin
KeymasterRe: Samsung RL39WBSW not cooling or freezing
Hi
More likely the defrost heater
Bryan
November 9, 2015 at 10:03 pm #432006mpt600
ParticipantRe: Samsung RL39WBSW not cooling or freezing
Thanks!
Any way to test it? Or shall I just bite the billet and order one?
November 10, 2015 at 9:01 am #432007admin
KeymasterRe: Samsung RL39WBSW not cooling or freezing
Hi
Does it work for about 15 hours then stop working until you switch it off then on again ?.
If it does then it’s more likely the heater/sensor/thermal fuse. If you don’t know how to test them then it’s a complete unit.
Bryan
November 12, 2015 at 7:40 pm #432008mpt600
ParticipantRe: Samsung RL39WBSW not cooling or freezing
I have a multimeter, what do I test? I assume on the heater I’m looking for something other than open circuit? For thermal fuses do I just check the resistance changes with temperature?
November 12, 2015 at 9:04 pm #432009Mrfreeeze
ParticipantRe: Samsung RL39WBSW not cooling or freezing
Yes you sound like you know what you are doing – yes measure the heater element for continuity its more than likely thats the problem.
Auto defrost freezerts are always a problem as the element will always wear out eventually and that ends up with ice build up behind the insulation – you can always tell when this happens as the plastic inside the freezer or more often fridge walls begins to bulge out – its the ice building up and pushing the insulation outwards. As long as the pipes arent cracked it can be fixed if you have the time and put in the effort!
Thermal fuses are easy to check.
You need either an ohmmeter or a digital multimeter in order to test the thermal fuse. You have to adjust your ohmmeter to the Rx1 setting. If you are not familiar with an ohmmeter, this is a device that helps you check whether the thermal fuse is letting electricity flow into the system of your appliance or not.Allow the probes of your ohmmeter or digital multimeter to touch the edges of the fuse. The device should display a reading on the screen. Read that carefully, and it will help you determine if the fuse is broken or not. There is no need to replace the fuse with a new one if the needle of your ohmmeter changes place to 0. On the other hand, you need to install a new thermal fuse if the needle of the ohmmeter does not move.
Keep in mind that a thermal fuse cannot be adjusted, and if it is found to be faulty or broken, you need to replace it immediately.
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