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Hi everyone,
I have a Hotpoint LFT 114 with a possible heater fault, i’ve done a search on this site but not fully found the information to confirm this so was wondering if someone can give me some advise.
So the error code is flashing: Power + 2 + 4
I’ve taken the sides off the dishwasher and its completely dry on the bottom. It will complete a rinse cycle without any issues, however when you select a normal wash it seems to be fine for the first 10 minutes, then stops and pumps out the water, when you open the door it continues to pump until you turn it off.
I really don’t have the money to waste on multiple parts so really want to get this right so looking for advice, is this a heater issue or PCB board, how would you test these parts ?
Any advice would be great, thanks
James
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
2+4 is a no heat fault. It could be the heater, pressure switch, module, broken wiring etc, not the greatest machines on the market and prone to heater and module faults.
The heater is part of the main circulation pump housing and can be tested with the correct electrical test equipment, it is not easy to actually test the module though.
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
Thanks for the reply, looking at the inside of the machine I was surprised how good it looked, you would think its a brand new machine.
Are you able to confirm what i should be looking for when trying to find the pressure switch and module ?
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
Have you checked the heater yet?
Pressure switch less likely than heater or module which is situated in the bottom front of the machine. Unless the module is obviously physically damaged you won’t really be able to ‘test it’. Also there are different modules for this machine, all of which require programming with a one use only smart card and an expensive card reader.
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
No, will have a look tonight, how do you test this ? You’ve talked about using a multi meter before but which connection should I be testing, and at which point during the cycle ? Thanks
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
Forgive me for saying this but some of your questions suggest that you have a very limited knowledge of electrical problems or safe working methods.
The machine should not be tested ‘during the cycle’. The machine should be unplugged from the mains and the heating element tested for continuity, resistance and insulation.
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
What gave you that idea lol
Just need to work out how to get the parts out later for testing.
Thanks for all the advice, i’ll report back tomorrow if I haven’t blown my self up 🙂
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
Right, I’ve tested the heater element for continuos resistance using my multi meter on the two plug points and it fails, so it looks like this is the part that needs replacing, well I hope it is lol. I’ll order the new part in the morning and report back once fitted.
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
THIS is the part you need. 😉
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
I would change the motor as well if I was you. (The bit the heater is connected to)
I’m not saying its causing your fault but it will be on its way out…Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
Thanks for all the advice so far, really helpful and friendly site.
Shame that can’t said for the other half who keeps moaning about washing up, default answer from her is buy a new one, how boring is that 🙂
Re: Hotpoint LFT 114 – Possible heater fault
Good news, its backup and running!!!!!
So, if anyone else gets this issue I would suggest the following:
Put the machine onto option 3 which is a 7 minute rinse cycle, this will test all the other parts on the machine apart from the heater which is the likely fault. If it completes the cycle then you know you don’t have a water leak and the other parts are fine.
The next stage is to pull the device out and take off the right side off, this will give you access to heater which will be the next item to test. As discussed above you need to test the heater for continuous resistance using a multimeter, made sure the device is unplug from the mains. Here is a link if you are unsure how you should test this:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Use … eter/25632
So if the heater is at fault you’ll get a reading of 0, when you get the replacement test again and you should now have a reading this time.
So replace the part using the store on this website, I couldn’t find it any cheaper and a great service. Take pictures along the way just in case. Take time with the heater unit as this is the main part and has a motor on the side.
When testing the device once back together I put it on two chairs, select option three for a quick test, this way you can inspect the device for any leaks. If no leaks then the device can be put fully back together and installed.
Any questions with this issue then post below and I’ll try and help.
This is only my advice and others may wish to do it differently.
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