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Hello Everyone,
I’ve got a Hotpoint Aquarius WD420G that has recently dropped off the belt. It was sitting like that for several minutes with an error code 3+4 (washer NTC) when I finally realized and turned it off.
After removing the lid, I have found the reason why the belt came off and I fixed it, however, when I turned the machine back on, I ended up with the same error message. I have turned off the mains and back on multiple times. I have tried switching programs, but as soon as I hit “Start” it comes back with the same fault code.
I though, perhaps, the belt might have hit the heating element and the NTC, so I have carefully read the following forum topic and went through those tests step by step: https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forumsph … 77755.html
Results:
After visually inspected the connections I found everything was intact. I have disconnected the mains and tested the NTC: it works like a charm. Resistance varied between 20k and 23k which, corresponds with the specs. While I was there, I have also checked the filament resistance with the same positive result.Peculiar activities:
1. When I turn on the appliance the dryer’s fan is constantly running.
2. Whenever I lean over the fan, a burning plastic smell is observable, although, the temperature of the fan’s motor and wires are only little above the room temperature and no fumes or other visual indicator.Has anybody come through anything like this? Could you please point me where to continue looking?
Many thanks for the help in advance.
Re: NTC error code after belt drop off repaired
Why did the belt come off?
Apart from the motor falling off only three reasons for a belt to come adrift, belt badly stretched, drum pulley loose or main bearing failure.
The dryer motor running continuously suggests a faulty power module, has the belt hit this when it came adrift?
Re: NTC error code after belt drop off repaired
Why did the belt come off?
Apparently a hose organiser clamp came off and the counterweight was rubbing against the hose, causing it drip. I believe it was the wet surface on the pulley that caused the belt to drop off. I have fixed the hose and properly mounted it. Neither the belt nor the pulley are loose by default. The belt itself is in a good condition, though.
About a month ago I did notice some moisture appearing under the machine but I was hoping that it could survive a couple of weeks when I can finally address the issue. Since the moisture never appeared during the washing cycle I assumed it must be the drain pump.
This machine was repaired about a year ago with bearings, lip seal and has been descaled.
The dryer motor running continuously suggests a faulty power module, has the belt hit this when it came adrift?
I also thought of that but I don’t see how could it have been mechanically possible as the power module is right in the corner. I take it apart and have a look.
Re: NTC error code after belt drop off repaired
A strong possibility that the water has got onto the power module, especially if it has been dripping onto the pulley.
Drain pumps very rarely leak.
Re: NTC error code after belt drop off repaired
I have removed the power module. After visual inspection the first thing I noticed that there was a burned crater on the PCB between two of the edge connector pads, proving that there was an arcing between the two pads. Since there is a significant distance between them, the only possible way it could have happen if it did get wet.
So I think you were right about that. :tup:
By the way, “coincidentally”, the two edge connector pads are connected to the dryer’s fan.
I have ground off the soot and filled up the crater with a viscous adhesive as it has burned under the pads and may cause mechanical connection issues in the future.
Once I had to take the power module apart, I thought it would be worth to go through the least longevity friendly parts, the electrolyte caps. One of them, a 470uF cap has a bump on the head, indicating gas build up inside during operation. My ESR meter reads 6.6{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} loss through it, confirming that it is dying. I have an exact replacement part, so I am going to replace it as soon as the glue has bonded.
I’ll let you know the result, so others might learn something. 😉
As for the drain pump, I don’t know how frequently they go bad as I am not repairing them every day, but I did have to repair that in my previous washing machine. In this machine I was assuming drain hose clamp or something like that, so not really an exact pump leakage.
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