4 year old LG direct drive 8kg w machine F1280TD6

Re: 4 year old LG direct drive 8kg w machine F1280TD6

This is not your model but has a very similar, visually identical, pcboard set up and has been re-written for you. I do not guarantee buying a new pcb will solve your particular problem but very likely it will.
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Completely dead, no lights on the display, no nothing, FUSE OK!
Power from mains plug to the suppessor`s pcb ( on the top r/h/side of the chassis looking from the front ) and through suppessor to pink connector block so suppessor is not the fault which can happen with this part SO CHECK this part with a multimeter set to buzzer FIRST. Using multi meter, set to buzzer, traced wires through loom ( now note: the wires both neutral and live go into separate bullet connector blocks buried in the loom and worse still the wires then change to a different colour-all part of the Korean sense of humour! ) to the pcboard at the base of the machine within the plastic rectangular box. Looking from the rear of the machine: to remove this module/box there is a hidden screw on the left that holds the pcb to the plastic white base but due to the main bulk of the wires that enter it you`ll have trouble seeing it. Once unscrewed slide the box to the left and it will come away. To separate the two halves there is a second screw underneath at t`other end of the box. Then unclip.
On the machine I repaired the pcb looked perfect and no hint of a problem ( typical of pcbs ) and power, via m/meter, reaches it. Note that both live and neutral go to different twinned terminal blocks of differing pcb blocks to add to the fun and games.
I bit the bullet on this one and bought a new pcb £80 brand new off ebay from WOW discounts, wired it in, prayed hard, and…..it now works just fine. ( to compare prices your pcb for your F1280td6 model is Partmaster part number 2431708pm @ £121….robbery! wow discounts is part of Partmaster!!!! )
Note, these boards have potted components i.e. set in a resin for no other reasons to stop anyone replacing the any components – someone who designed this has obviously been on a business management course! The component that goes wrong is usually the big black 3″ high cylindrical capacitor.
The machine has been tested very well including t/drying and is now back to its normal self.

Might not apply to you: whilst you have the lid off it might be a good time when testing after the repair to make sure the water circulating jet is not blocked- the orange thing at 12 o/clock top of the door seal, as this one was blocked up solid. These get blocked up very easily, silly design.

Joined: Mon May 25, 2015 1:39 pm