AEG lavamat turbo 16830 door locking fault

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  • #92817
    lawf0081
    Participant

    My AEG 16830 stopped dead with 2 minutes to go on a 30 degree wash cycle, and after some delay showed an E40 fault. Diagnostics then refined the fault to E41. Some trial runs confirmed the E41 diagnosis: door not locking (although sometimes there were clicks to suggest it was trying).

    I once had a similar fault before, solved by replacing the door interlock device. So I ordered one of those. When I came to install it I found that the machine’s connector plug for the interlock had two badly blackened female terminals (the ones numbered 4+5). It looks like the effect of a short. The old interlock that I removed only had a little blackness on male terminal 4 – otherwise it was superficially undamaged.

    Sadly, installing the new interlock did not correct the fault. Further testing of the machine showed the fault to be erratic, even on the same programme:

    – sometimes the machine attempts to operate (with clicks for the door lock) and then shows E40;
    – sometimes the machine just doesn’t do anything beyond showing its lights and time to run (i.e. silent sulking);
    -sometimes the machine starts (and appears to lock), fills, and then hangs (with no error message) at some point during the wash. Then it just sits at 14 mins, or whatever, and I have to turn it off and drain it manually.

    I made a point of disconnecting the electricity supply to the machine and leaving it for a few minutes between all test runs to make sure that any previous error states were cleared.

    Thinking out loud here, but one hypothesis is a loose connection caused by oxidising of those blackened female terminals on the connector. Hard to get at them to clean them up. But the blackened terminals may themselves be a symptom of another problem. One possible cause of a short would be a small tear that I spotted (1 cm) in the folds of the rubber door seal, fairly high up on the lock side, that might (I suppose) have allowed a splash to reach the interlock connector. But no sign of moisture nearby, only a bit of dust, so maybe that’s a red herring.

    So perhaps the blackened terminals point to something further back in the machine’s electronics. Am I right in thinking that the next component back from the interlock is a microswitch, before we reach the main circuit board? Is there any point in replacing the microswitch, do you think? Or is that an all-or-nothing component that wouldn’t explain the erratic behaviour listed above? It seems unlikely to me that a fault in the main board itself would be a more likely explanation for such erratic behaviour but I’m open to being put right by someone who knows!

    Anyway, I am looking for advice on what would explain the fault, and in particular what might be a good next step. Many thanks!

    #452289
    1totalshambles
    Participant

    Re: AEG lavamat turbo 16830 door locking fault

    No pnc code given but to hazzard a guess. Isn`t this machine a washer dryer, rather than a washing machine? If so you could try the following.
    Mark with a perm marker pen the wires that go to the tumble dryer element. Pull those wires off. Refit, if you haven`t already done so, your interlock switch and then try. If the machine works several times to the end i.e. completes a wash/rinse/spin cycle what has happened is your dryer element has run part to earth ( but not enough to take out a trip let alone a fuse ) the earth leakage back feeds into the pcboard proccessor ( the curse of many a 21st century man and woman! ) even if the dryer function is not preset. How come? What often happens with the way these machines, and others, are wired is that the dryer element may well receive a live ( though no neutral ) whilst on the wash cycle. It is often all a bit hit and miss, very confusing and a little abstract to track down. I think this is the cause of your problem and if so a new dryer heater as a genuine part via my rather dodgy memory is circ 46 quid ish.
    As for damaged or burnt door lock tags. If they are genuinely burnt and it is not black brush dust ( no idea what version you have = no pnc ) then mark where the wires go on the connector plug and cut and singulary re tag them using insulated female tags as a preference.
    Unlikely at this stage that the pcb is u/s because the machine sometimes works….locks if nothing else. If a locking triac blows, well it has blown and the machine would not even start.

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