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May 1, 2005 at 9:27 am #9315
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KeymasterI have a semi integrated Diplomat which is not that old (3/4 years). I’ve never been that impressed with it, but now it has given up completely. It wasn’t completely emptying, and was elaving dirty water in the bottom. So I had a poke around yesterday and now it sounds like it’s making the right noises but I don’t see the arms spinning at any point in the cycle (water seems to come and go though, but the pump is making odd noises).
I know this is like how long is piece of string, but does anyone have any idea how much it might cost to get fixed (“assuming worst case”)?
I am tempted to ditch it and get a new one – any recommendations (under £400 would be good, also could do with either a green or brown fascia).
May 1, 2005 at 9:29 am #133469admin
KeymasterRe: Diplomat: repair or new?
Oh, and if I go for the new one, would a semi integrated be fairly easy to fit? Looks to me like it simply has two screws into the worktop above keeping it in place – or am I missing something?
May 1, 2005 at 9:55 am #133470kwatt
KeymasterThe door is more of a problem when replacing. 😉
As to the one that’s there it sounds as if it’s backfilling from the waste or there’s a problem with your waste, not the appliance with regard to the diirty water. For no drum action there’s a few things it could be, but worst case is a module which, from any of the guys I know repairing them, should cost a max of about £120 to replace depending on the local charges.
I’d have to say it was worth a look.
K.
May 1, 2005 at 1:52 pm #133471admin
KeymasterThanks
kwatt wrote:The door is more of a problem when replacing. 😉
K.
In what way? I assume the machines are all a std size, and I managed to get the door off easily enough (assuming you mean the panel which matches the kitchen) so I’m hoping it would go on a new one easily too! 😕
To me, accessibility isn’t good for repairing these things – there is one large component (which contained the heating element and possibly a pump too) which I imagine you can only change by taking the machine out anyway.
Which brings another question – the heating element (and much of the rest of the machine) had hard deposits and a lot of sludge around it. This is, I guess, partly hard water and partly maybe due to it not having been working right for a bit – food buildup. Mrs S regularly uses Oust, but is that the best way to keep these deposits down? Someone suggested vinegar…or soda.
May 1, 2005 at 2:21 pm #133472kwatt
KeymasterRe: Diplomat: repair or new?
Yeah the doors are pretty much a standard size, but where and how you fix them most certainly isn’t. 😉
There’s loads you can only do with the machine out, for 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of repairs I should imagine, it’s gotta come out.
The sludge, if it’s like a goo, is overdosing on detergent most likely and probably from liguid detergent.
K.
May 11, 2005 at 7:52 pm #133473admin
Keymasterkwatt wrote:Yeah the doors are pretty much a standard size, but where and how you fix them most certainly isn’t. 😉
There’s loads you can only do with the machine out, for 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of repairs I should imagine, it’s gotta come out.
The sludge, if it’s like a goo, is overdosing on detergent most likely and probably from liguid detergent.
K.
HELP.HAVE SPENT £200 REPAIRING DIPLOMAT ADP8224.GUY WHO FIXED IT IS A FRIEND AND IS A FULLY QUALIFIED REPAIR MAN.HAVING DEVELOPED A SLIGHT LEAK IN CASING ON R/HAND SIDE AS YOU LOOK IT WAS REPAIRED AGAIN AND IS NOW COMING UP E2 AGAIN WHICH INDICATES FLOOD.IT HAS BEEN CHECKED AND HE DOESNT KNOW WHAT IS WRONG AS IT IS NT A FLOOD.WILL I BIN IT AND CUT LOSES?
May 11, 2005 at 8:16 pm #133474kwatt
KeymasterRe: Diplomat: repair or new?
Hi E2 can indicate many faults, twelve I think the count was. But no matter, it’s a well documented failure if you’d care to do a search in the forums you’ll find plenty of reference to this error code. I don’t know what you spent the £200 on but if it was a PCB/timer then I’ve yet to see replacing one of those cure an E2 error.
E2,in my experience, has never indicated a flood.
Maybe you should advise your friend to sign up on here.
K.
May 12, 2005 at 11:55 am #133475admin
KeymasterE2
E2 which is flood sensor at the bottom is activated by water leaking into the base or if the mc does not fill fast enough due to restriction between airbreak and sump or one way flap in sump is restricted or airbreak is clogged up with crap. These will all set of the airside of the flood switch
Andy nz (ex mfi)
May 12, 2005 at 12:35 pm #133476kwatt
KeymasterRe: Diplomat: repair or new?
Yeah Andy, but it’s rare to see the switch tripped and hardly a job for the uninitiated to attempt.
The MFI tech bulletin in Identiffier actually pinpoints 5 possible causes, none of which I’ve ever seen cause the fault to occur, 99/100 it’ll be the side chamber in my experience because it’s installed on a spigot and the gunk comes back down the drain into the bottom of the chamber. After that it’s a 50/50 whether you can clear it or you have to replace it.
An additional hard copy bulletin I have from Smeg or MFI (can’t remember which) gives still more reasons for it to occur.
The point was that, for edwint, that many people assume that it’s a timer fault when it isn’t and unless they are aware of all the possible causes it’s prety much a stab in the dark trying to diagnose the problem.
In essence, it’s a job for an engineer, not an inexperienced member of the public to attempt.
K.
May 12, 2005 at 12:39 pm #133477NWAR
ModeratorE2 errors:
1st check – sump flap
2nd check – air break
3rd check – air break to pressure switch hose
After that swear, tear out some more hair & prepare yourself for a lengthy investigation.
As Kwatt says there are at least 12 different faults which can throw up an E2.Craig
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