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E-Nr : WAE 24164GB/30
Somewhere between 5 minutes and 15 minutes into a wash cycle, my washing machine stops and all the lights go out. If I turn the knob back to off and leave it for something more than about 5 minutes and then turn it back to the wash cycle, it will carry on and often, but not always, finish the whole cycle.
I thought it might be a problem with the power board, but I put a new one in and got exactly the same behaviour.
I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can’t work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn’t seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don’t know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?)All suggestions welcome.
Thank you.
Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle
” I have the exploded parts diagram and list of parts but can’t work out what the problem is. The possibilities seem to include..
a. The operating module (which LOOKED fine when I inspected it while replacing the power module, but obviously could be faulty)
b. The Capacitor-interference suppressor (that doesn’t seem very likely, but then I know next to nothing about white goods).
c. The door lock (but would that turn out all the lights?)
d. The Sensor-NTC (don’t know what this is)
e. The Regulator-Water level (would this turn all the lights out?) “I see your dilemma having lashed out on a power board.
Start at the sealed mains plug and mains socket as I have these fail in a way similar as you describe.
As a general run as to how these things goof up:
a) operating module. Could be but not common, your very last resort. That is all I can say. b) Get the machine to screw up, remove the lid off the machine, any kids around tell them skadoodle off out of the area, pull out the out put connector wire pair from the suppress. Get a mains test light screwdriver and test the live input tag on the suppressor ( i.e. the brown wire and if you have zilch it is the lead or the plug or the socket, it is usually the moulded plug fooling around but if you do get a light via screwdriver test to that live tag on the previously removed connector block however, and better still, if you have a multimeter you can test live in, neutral out on the input tags and the output L and N to prove suppressor is ok or not. Suppessor failure is not common on these.c) door lock itself won`t be that but check its plug in wires d) NTC sensor is the electronic thermostat thing that is pushed into the heater. Won`t be that. e) the pressure water level sensor switch very unlikely but once again check its wires.Normally I do not recommend any live testing for Joe Public but in this case this is the only live testing you should do to prove a point given the rather off beat fault that you have. Do not under any circumstances when live testing the suppressor accidentally slip the testing leads off the L and N output terminals, which are very close to each other, together unless you like a large bang and a blown fuse at the minimum!! Be very careful.
Re: Bosch Classixx 1200 washing machine stops mid-cycle
It turns out it WAS the sealed mains plug. I had already changed the fuse (even though the old one seemed fine), but it didn’t occur to me that the actual switch would be faulty – at least not in a way that it would cut in and out pretty much at random.
So I’ve got a new mains plug and all is well.
Thank you very much indeed for your detailed reply. Next time I need some parts, I will buy them from you.
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