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hi
I have a lamona hja8630 not heating the water.
I have tested heating element, no earth fault, element resistance is 29 ohms which is about right. I have 230v at the element but no return path on the neutral wire.
is this pcb or thermostat ? I had a look for the thermostat but couldn’t see it, I take it thepcb would be in the door?Re: lamona hja8630 not heating
according to the diagram the element is live switched. so the neutral comes straight from the on off switch. check the continuity of the wire from the heater to the on off switch
wires can break at the bottom of the door on a lot of dishwashersalso did you measure the element from the terminals as there are safety stats in the heater assembly that can blow
Dave
Hi Dave, I’ve got an issue with the heater not heating either. The heater reads 28 ohms, and the wiring looks ok. I replaced the two relays on the control board, but it’s still not fixed (the relays might’ve been fine – I didn’t really know how to test them).
The safety stats you mention – are these fuses? And do you know where I’d find them – does the heater need to be taken out?
when you checked the heater did you check from where the wires are connected or the ends of the element ?
Dave
Just where the wires connect – I took the connector off and tested on the two terminals there. The heater unit was still in place.
ok have you checked wires from heater to programmer. they can break where they come through the bottom of the door
Dave
Hi Dave, I’ve just checked them now for continuity (had only visually checked before). All good from the plug that goes into the heater up to the control board & switch where they connect.
What would you do next? Anything else on the control board that is likely to be a problem?
Dave, thanks. Could this blue one on the board be the one you mean?
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I’ve tested with the meter (Ohms setting) and it seems to behave the same as the new ones I’ve ordered, so I’m not convinced it’s the issue… will try anyway tonight.
The smaller light blue one beside it is also labelled x2. Any guidance welcome. Thanks again.
yes they lose value over time and dont supply enough power to the board
you cant test it on an ohms scale its a capacitor but acts like a resistor when on an ac supply
Dave
Thanks, but unfortunately the new big x2 didn’t fix it. Is it worth working through the smaller components. Or, feels like a stupid question, but do you know what these icons mean? I can’t find the manual, so not sure if they could be related to an issue:
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will be salt and rinse aid
just lets you know that you need to add it. since most people use all in one tabs you can ignoryou need to check the NTC temp monitor
it connected with 2 blue wires on connector KN1 on connections 3 & 6. you need to check you have continuity to the sensor which should be mounted in the sump and what resistance reading you have across the sensor with it disconnected
Dave
So that read 3.70 (on the 20k ohm setting on multimeter). I think continuity looks ok as the reading was consistent with the door open/closed and with gentle tugging on the wires from the bottom end too.
Couple of other observations – I think the control board had some warmth to it, not sure if that’s normal when the power has been left on, mostly the capacitors – the X2 square capacitors and the cylindrical ones. Also the 2 blue wires first reading I took was 4.56 (on the 20k setting) but 3.7 on all other readings – may have been my error.
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