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Hello all,
I’ve joined the forum for some help with my washing machine. The repair man I have been using since owning this washing machine is retiring, and he has suggested I join the forum for some assistance. I hope you can help.
Firstly, my repair man suggested I request a copy of the workshop manual here – he has got one in the past for an ISE 10 and thinks there could be a similar copy for the W1607W. If anyone can help I would be grateful. I have the users manual and a parts list from the internet with a small amount of technical information, but the information is not really technical enough for component testing. Some circuit diagrams would be really useful.
Secondly, the current problem with the machine is something my repair man has not experienced before. The symptoms are as follows: regardless of which program is selected, as soon as the motor/drum turns for about 1 second, it stops. Then the washing machine remains in mid-program mode and doesn’t continue. I then have to switch the machine on/off multiple times to enable program reselection.
I have since had the machine in pieces and checked all of the easily-tested components such as water pump, blocked pipes, pressure/level switch, heating element, temperature sensor, and motor, but nothing indicating the cause of fault. I have checked the main circuit board and also the motor control circuit board for obvious component failure such as burnt resistors or bulging capacitors – again, nothing obvious.
Generally I’m happy with the machine and I would like to keep it running. I like the build quality of the main drum/tub components. Everything is metal (stainless steel I think), and nothing to suggest that it would not continue to be serviceable for the foreseeable future. I am very reluctant to get a new machine constructed in such a way that means it is difficult to take apart and fix. All of the new machines appear to be constructed with sealed/welded plastic tubs that cannot be economically maintained. If anybody has a similar used machine for sale in the Essex area, then I would be interested in buying it from you.
Thanks in advance.
Didn’t spot this before. As with your engineer it is not something I have encountered in the past. If you send me a private message with your email address I will see what I can do regarding a manual. It would indicate problems in the motor/pcb area though sadly.:(
Hello all,
Does anybody know what the tacho generator resistance should measure? The one on our washing machine motor measures approximately 1 mega Ohm and fluctuates slightly when I spin the motor by hand. Is this usual? Are tacho generators a generic item, or are they machine specific?
I’m wondering if I can get one from another machine to test out. Does anyone have any second-hand ISE machine parts I could purchase?
The manual doesn’t appear to list the tacho specs but looking at tacho’s in some old Hotpoint manuals the tacho resistance is between 175ohms and 250ohms. The resistance does vary when spun. The tachometers are all specific to the individual motors. When you say the motor runs for a second is this a very slow turn or a fast spurt of action? (Have asked this question already);)
This forum trade member did have a quantity of ISE spares. https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forums/member/5-r600a
iadom wrote:The manual doesn’t appear to list the tacho specs but looking at tacho’s in some old Hotpoint manuals the tacho resistance is between 175ohms and 250ohms. The resistance does vary when spun. The tachometers are all specific to the individual motors. When you say the motor runs for a second is this a very slow turn or a fast spurt of action? (Have asked this question already);)
Thanks for the reply, iadom. Sorry I haven’t replied sooner. The motor when connected to the drum with the belt turn the drum about half to one turn. With the motor belt disconnected, it seems to spin a few times. The movement seems smooth – not jerky at all. It is very quiet – definitely no bearing problems. It is hard to determine the speed at which it turns. The speed of the drum seems like when it is doing a standard wash. Not spin speed, and not an unusually slow speed either. It appears to be like the program is initiated by the main controller, but then a ‘faulty’ signal causes it to stop the motor again. That is why I considered there might be a problem with the tacho generator – if motor speed cannot be determined by the controller, then it initiates a machine stop. Are washing machine controllers that sophisticated?
Most definitely that sophisticated, in instances of a wiring break or total tacho failure the machine would go into completely uncontrolled spin, if it was fully loaded at the time then it would jump violently causing serious damage if the electronics didn’t cut the power to the motor ASAP. The reading you gave from the tacho of 1 Megohm is very high if it is a correct reading. Unfortunately I don’t have a motor to compare it with. As I said at the beginning it does point to a motor/tacho/ module fault. Sadly both the motor and the module are seriously expensive items, not the sort of thing to be playing ‘parts bingo’ with 🙁
Yes, iadom, I agree. Expensive parts to play bingo with. That is why I’d like to go a bit further with the testing. You made some interesting points regarding the tacho generator fault symptoms. I’m thinking that I might run the machine with a wire disconnected from the tacho generator, and also with a variable resistor connected instead. If the motor performs differently to what it is currently doing, then it could highlight a fault with the tacho generator. Do you know how the main PCB communicates with the motor control PCB? Do washing machines use serial data protocols? I’m wondering how the motor is ‘told’ which speeds and direction of rotation from the controller.
On the subject of sophistication, I find it strange that a manufacturer would design a machine that monitors the motor speed, takes preventative action in the case of sensor fault, but then does not provide a basic fault code to highlight that the machine has gone into fault. The machine in question does already present a number of fault codes for other reasons. However, in the current case, the machine just sits idle with no clue to suggest it has stopped. The only thing displayed is the remaining program time which does not change – even when power is cycled off and on again.
Thanks again for your support and interest.
I do agree that fault codes on this machine are somewhat limited. There is a possibility that they have a means of interrogating the software in the factory but again that is something that is not given to field engineers. As for data protocols I have no idea, nor would 99.9{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the engineers who repair these machines. It is not something that would be of any use to any of them in any event. Unless you can find what the resistance of the tacho should be then you have a problem but 1 megohm does seem to be very high.
I understand. Unfortunately it seems like the tacho generator is not sold as a spare part, as far as I can tell. I’ll gladly stand corrected if anyone knows where I can get one. I think I’ll put a resistor across the terminals when I get a time to run a test. I’ll feedback any results.
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