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Hi,
I’m after some advice on the above oven before I skip it and buy a replacement.It’s blown an element in the past which tripped the electrics at the time, i replaced the element and it worked fine for a year or two.
Back in November the fan oven stopped heating, i immediately assumed the element was the cause so ordered a new one. This didn’t fix the issue this time. The Grill mode works, the top and bottom elements both heat and we can use it on those modes. The fan seems to work, but intermittently. It does spin, but not straight away when you switch it on.
I’ve got it stripped down in the garage and there are a couple of issues. Around the rear fan is a lot of scorching, i’m not sure if this has built up over time, or whether it’s happened recently. The fan does spin but initially this scorching did seem to be stopping it turning cleanly. i’ve cleaned it up and it now spins freely, testing on fan oven i get no heat at the element, but after 10 seconds or so the fan does spin, although it doesn’t seem to turn very quickly.
I’ve tested resistance across the new element and it doesn’t appear to have any. If i touch the electrodes of my multimeter together it reads 10, if i do the same across the element i also see 10, which i assume means no resistance? Is it possible that a new element could be faulty when delivered?
I’m debating whether to spend £60-70 on a new fan motor and element but on the other hand if there’s other faults i may be better off just replacing it.
I did pay £155 for a fixed price repair from Repaircare, but the engineer wanted to swap the element, fan motor, PCB and the top cooling fan. My repair was cancelled and I was refunded as it exceeded the parts cost of the repair.
Any advice on what else I can check?
thanks“I’ve tested resistance across the new element and it doesn’t appear to have any. If i touch the electrodes of my multimeter together it reads 10, if i do the same across the element i also see 10, which i assume means no resistance? “
best thing to try is one of the working elements. and see if you get the same reading on the fan element
to use a multimeter you need to set it on an appropriate scale. with an element your expecting a reading below 100 ohms so you need to find a scale that will read up to 200 ohms. when you put the leads together you will get zero or at most 1 or 2 ohms. when you test the element you expect 30 ohms or so on a good element if its bad its max for the scale just like the leads not touching anything
As for the fan if its sticky and does not run well then the element will overheat and it wont cook properly
dave
Thanks, that helped!
After setting the multimeter to the correct setting I do get 26 ohms across the fan oven element, and ~30 across some of the others.
The fan is definitly faulty, it will spin occasionaly, but not freely and not every time i switch it to on. Even on the defrost mode which uses no elements, it will only occasionally spin and when it does its slow.
Is it possible that it’s not detecting the fan spinning and therefore not sending power to the element? If i set it to fan oven i don’t seem to get any heat at the element, it’s cold to the touch
no the power should still go to the element so your looking for a blown thermostat or switch that’s causing this. Have got no info on this model so don’t know circuits etc so my first look would be the switch behind the knob. this switch does 2 things, it turns the fan on and another contact operates the element.
trace the wires from the element, we know 1 should be neutral and one should be live, normally one wire goes back to the stat etc but the other one goes to other components as well. pick the one that goes direct back on its own because this one is probably the culprit, look at the switch for signs od burning and damage
Dave
There’s no knobs, this model has a touch screen on the front which has a ribbon cable that run to a PCB labelled Diehl Controls 729772.
The feed for the elements runs through a couple of components that are attached to the rear of the oven, i assume one of them is a thermostat. This seems to operate the other elements normally, so the grill and top/bottom element modes do seem to heat the oven to the correct temp.
I wonder if it’s worth removing the control board and re-flowing the joints, there’s no obvious burnt components but i guess it could be a dry joint?
Looks like i may have found the fault with this. There are three thermostats, two which are screwed to the back of the oven (type 261/p) which seem to test ok, but also a stat which goes through the top of the oven near the element which seems to be sold as a temperatrue sensor:
https://www.gorenje-spares.co.uk/cooker-oven/bo8776ax-25098901/sensor-temperature/product.pl?pid=3544612&path=498880&refine=thermostat&model_ref=2545753This has no resistance or continuity when i test it. I dont understand why the overn modes work and this only affects the fan oven….
So i need this and a fan so I’m looking at around £70 worth of parts.
this is a thermistor which is a temperture variable resistor so make sure when you test it you have the meter on scale that will measure resistances up to 100K ohms
also cant see a blown element damaging this. Have you checked the pcb for track damage ?
Dave
Hi,
Just to clarify, the original element that blew went a number of years ago and with a replacement element the oven continued to work normally since. Only in the last couple of months has the fan oven been problematic.I’m not convinced the temperature variable resistor is faulty now. It does have resistance which increases when you heat it up.
Thinking back, the recent problem with the fan oven started with it heating up, but not keeping hot while cooking, this was possibly related to opening the door to check/add food. Eventually the fan oven stopped heating at all.
I’ve had the PCB out and there’s no obvious signs of damage unfortunatley
could still be a board fault. most cooker board use relays to control the elements , these relays are a mechanical device so do fail. trace the wire from the element to the board and ascertain which relay controls it. look at the relay solder joints for signs of a bad joint and look at the relay case for signs of heat damage
Dave
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