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The cooker has 230v coming into it as I’ve checked the fuse. I traced the live coming up into the timer board and there is 230v there also, but no sign of life anywhere on the cooker. Is it likely to be the board? Can I confirm this somehow? Board are available on Ebay for about £35 but would rather not gamble in case it’s something else.
cheers!
electrofix wrote:you have found a live at the board but have you also got a neutral?
Dave
Thanks Dave. Forgive my inexperience but am I looking for continuity between neutral and earth at the board connector?
for electrical circuit to work you need a live wire and a neutral wire. A not uncommon fault is when the neutral wire breaks and then every terminal is live.
to the layman who just test for live then there is noting wrong as its live but without the neutral it wont work
had the same fault in a shower on Friday. shower switch was faulty on the neutral side. everything was live in the showerso in answer to your question we need continuity in the live from the timer back to the fuse in your meter cupboard and the same for the neutral
how did you test for live ?
if you did it with the power on do the same test with the neutral. if that is also live then you have a neutral fault
Dave
There are three wires going into the board. Here are the voltages, tesed on a live circuit, earthing out to the body of the cooker. I take it this is normal?
try the same test with the oven knobs turned to the operating position. Ie set fan oven and say 100 degrees
what I am interested is the 2 blues. one blue is the neutral in the other one is switched by the clock to provide the power to the oven. if when you do the test again one blue is zero but the other blue is now 200v or so then its prob the clock
if I am right since the clock has likely failed joining the 2 blues should get the unit going
Dave
Yes! The blue on the left is reading 230v and the one on the right (centre wire) is reading zero. So final check before I do it…. join the two wires…. I’ll have no clock/controller but the basic operations should work?
We never use the timer, clock or auto functions so is it safe to continue to use in this modified state?
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