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Hi all,
im looking some help with my Bosch dish washer please, it has a check water light on the panel and wouldn’t run, it ignored all panel switches and had to be switched of at the wall. I’ve cleaned the filters inside and checked the fresh water inlet filters before running to check the impeller etc.
Anyway, I’ve found on another post that tilting the machine back can allow water to drain out of a flood sensor compartment and reset the sensor which I tried and guess what… It worked. The machine has now reset the panel and is starting a wash cycle, my question is this, should this flood sensor be triggered if the machine has no leaks? Is it safe to run or could it flood my house? Can I locate the switch or perform maintence to solve the issue?Many thanks for your advice guys.
sometimes dishwashers have a bad day and water get into the base past seals through overfoaming etc
but if it does it again you have a leak and you have to find it
Dave
Since tilting the machine back and draining the water from the flood sensor compartment the machine has been running fine.:)
Hi All,
My Bosch dish washer has started tripping out the electric supply and my wife is going nuts, PLEASE HELP!
It seems to run for part of the wash program and then trip out the fuse board power supply which it has ran on from new, I am aware the machine is getting on a bit so a replacement may be the best option.
Let me make it clear that i am not at all familiar with how the washer operates but the forum has helped me out in the past and curiosity gets the better of me.
I done a little research and removed both side panels for a look, I started a rinse cycle which seems to work fine, the drain pump runs for about 10 – 15 seconds and then the water fill function takes over, the machine then washes for about 30 minutes before the drain function kicks in again, the control panel switches of and no water is found inside the machine.If I then switch the control to a normal wash cycle I believe the machine runs a rinse cycle first as the water remains cold and the detergent dispenser has not opened, the machine runs on for a bit and trips out the power supply, when the door is opened the detergent dispenser has opened and cold water is found in the wash area. could this be a faulty heater element?
I can see two heavy red wires and an earth plugged in beside what looks like a water circulation motor and pump, is this for a heat coil and can I disconnect to see if the machine still trips out or runs with an error code?this has all thr hallmarks of heater failure
need a full Enr to be able to help further and an FD number to be able to date it
Dave
Hi Dave
What is a Enr number and FD number?
I can see an id tag on the rear of the machine
SMS50T02GB
7402293
3 / 192 (189)ok got enough off those numbers even if some dont make sense
you unit has the combined motor. to be certain its the heater we need to disconnect it which can be done
below the door is a cover and probably an inner cover that needs to be removed. you will need a torx 20 driver to do this
if you look at the arrow on the pic, you need to remove the connector where the yellow arrow is. its a 3 pin large connector with an earth wire and i think 2 red cables.
once removed run the dishwasher and see if it trips. it wont heat obviously but if it does not trip you need a new motorDave
Hi Dave
I know its not the best approach but I have jumped the gun a bit and removed the pump to get a better view for ordering a replacement on here, I think it is part no 00651956.
Even tho I have took a gamble on the pump for now I will still slip the old pump back in and disconnect the heater coil for a test run.
Apart from that If one knew the power demands the heat coil required would it be possible to carry out a bench test?
prob better avoid this as a fire works display would be to early for new year 😎would need the last 2 digits of the Enr number to confirm motor used
early one use 651956 later one i looked up uses 755078
you cant power the heater on the bench, they are so flimsy it would blow it.
heater its self may not faulty, it would probably heat if power was applied. What is wrong with it is it has an earth fault which is what is blowing your trip
at least I have to say its most likley to be your heater but unless you do an earth leakage test on the heater or run with it disconnected you cant be 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}
Dave
Thanks Dave
I am still unsure what or where the Enr number is but my motor looks identical to the 651956 image although the motor ratings could be different.
By doing an earth leakage test do you mean a continuity test between the earth pin and either heat coil pins?
Coil resistance between both coil pins (red wire connectors)19.3 Ohms
Coil resistance between the earth and either of the two coil pins rises through the test metre ranges before showing an open circuit.
(I would assume this test should go straight to an open circuit if all were ok?)
Ill get the motor back on and run a wash to see what happens with the coil disconnected.you have the Enr number which is SMS50T02GB
but then there is a gap then 2 more numbers like SMS50T02GB / 02I have looked in the range and found 2 identical looking motors but they have different part numbers. you need an accurate number to make sure your part will work as intended. you may well have the correct motor but do you want to chance it for that cost
go here
https://www.bosch-home.co.uk/customer-service/spare-parts-searchput the full Enr number in and it allows you to get the correct part number and you will see the Bosch retail price
Dave
Thanks again Dave,
Got the last two digits of the Enr number (18)
I had recorded the data from an id sticker on the rear of the washer but did not notice the stamped number on the inner door skin.
The link that you attached for Bosch worked a treat and it looks like part no 00651956 is the correct pump for my machine and… its twelve quid cheaper on here.I put the old pump unit on again this morning and ran a wash with the heat coil disconnected to see weather the machine would trip out the power supply, it seems the machine just wants to keep running, it ran for over and hour or so through refill, wash and drain cycles, at this stage it would normally have tripped out so I paused the wash, shut of the power supply and reconnected the heat coil on the pump, when restarted the machine heated up and then went into a drying cycle before powering down, we then loaded it up with dishes and completed a full wash at 50 decrease but I have two reasons why the machine operated as normal.
(1) when the heat coil was split from the pump assembly i noticed some damp and soap residue around the plastic cover and metal heater coil assembly, (possible internal seal leakage) the pump was able to dry out after removal which may have solved a possible electrical short condition.
(2) when the machine is running with warm water only (not cold water as was during previous operational tests) slight leakage occurs along the R/H side base seal which drips on to the water proof protection flap for the lower electrical panel and drips of just below the pump in question.SO I NOW HAVE A WATER LEAK..
I have read different forum discussion regarding Bosch dish washer water leaks along the R/H side of the sump and see a 12005744 repair kit available, although water leakage has not activated the lower pan float switch since mid 2019 (which only occurred once) I would rather carry out a suitable repair now before the problem could get worse.
All in all I wish to replace the heat pump and repair the water leak, any suggestions on the best repair option?
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