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Hi All, A friend directed me to you guys so I am hoping that you can help me please 😀
I currently have a 13 Amp compact oven and I am replacing it with a 16 Amp standard oven. I would like advice as to how easy the swap of the ovens will be and whether a qualified electrician is required to do it.
The quote I had from an electrician on checkatrade for replacing/installing the new oven (and the hob which also needs replacing) is £110 (how does that price sound to you guys? It seems expensive to me but maybe I’m underestimating how long the job will take and how complicated it is).
I do feel that I am fairly competent but I also understand the consequences of doing the job badly, and I love my house!
The oven is fully electric (not gas).
The old oven:
[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/sammylivesmoore/33EDDB9E-E78B-46DE-AC7F-15E6B5A477F8_zpsyis6nr5h.jpg”}[/IMG2]The new oven: https://www.johnlewis.com/neff-b57cr…steel/p1959208
[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/sammylivesmoore/770AC45A-ACD4-4821-B29C-3401EEA2B5A5_zpsdkmgl0fh.png”}[/IMG2]
The oven is on a fuse: The smaller fuse on the right [IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/sammylivesmoore/800EE4BC-54DA-4999-A7EB-2BD745E3D9AF_zpsrkdjeyec.jpg”}[/IMG2]
The fuse is on the ‘sockets’ circuit (no, not on the cooker circuit, that’s another cooker and the hob I also need to replace):
[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/sammylivesmoore/D8423E3B-4934-438A-9B63-1673ED1E74E0_zpsc2vwhxdq.jpg”}[/IMG2]
I unscrewed the oven and pulled it out.
It’s on a white cable which goes directly into the fuse switch (pictured above) on the wall. The hob however has a junction box (I think that’s what it’s called).
Thank you!
Any more information I need to add please let me know.
Extra photos:
Oven:
[IMG2=JSON]{“data-align”:”none”,”data-size”:”full”,”src”:”https://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/sammylivesmoore/AA6EFC5F-B7CA-4BB5-8AC2-7CE2AE4C3CE2_zps4vfe7tr7.jpg”}[/IMG2]I will be removing the plinth at the top, and the runners for the drawer!
Probably useless photo of the type of cable:
as the oven is now over 13 amps it will have to be connected to the cooker circuit as it will overload the 13 spur box
Dave
Thanks Dave.
How tricky a job is this and how much would you expect it to cost?
Should I buy one of those bigger fuse plates in advance of the electrician coming?
cant enlarge the fuse in the plate as it is on the ring main so a max of 13A only. That switch is now redundant
it will have to be connected into the cooker main with one of the hobs
connecting the oven should not be too pricy but you say you are fitting a new hob so
old hob has to be unscrewed .
removed from work surface
disconnected from the supply
then the work surface has to be cleaned of all the old hobs seal
then they have to check the new hob fits the intended hole
then it has to be wires into the electrics
then the new seal has to be fitted
then it has to be installed in the work surface and the holding screws fittedin contrast the oven
has to be unscrewed and removed from housing
then disconnected from supply
new oven has to be connected to supply
then the new oven is pushed into the housing and screwed inas you can see the oven is the easy one
Dave
electrofix wrote:cant enlarge the fuse in the plate as it is on the ring main so a max of 13A only. That switch is now redundant
it will have to be connected into the cooker main with one of the hobs
connecting the oven should not be too pricy but you say you are fitting a new hob so
old hob has to be unscrewed .
removed from work surface
disconnected from the supply
then the work surface has to be cleaned of all the old hobs seal
then they have to check the new hob fits the intended hole
then it has to be wires into the electrics
then the new seal has to be fitted
then it has to be installed in the work surface and the holding screws fittedin contrast the oven
has to be unscrewed and removed from housing
then disconnected from supply
new oven has to be connected to supply
then the new oven is pushed into the housing and screwed inas you can see the oven is the easy one
Dave
Thank you.
That is really helpful.
I was wondering about the hob seal, but was trying to convince myself that it would be easy to do myself. I now realise that with the sealant etc this needs to be done properly.
I really appreciate someone explaining the process and pointing out the ‘it’s not just a matter of taking out out and popping the new one straight in’ perspective.
As for quotes, I’ve so far only had the one response (completely understandable as its the weekend and everyone deserves a hassle free weekend!) and will hopefully get at least one more by Tuesday when I can make more of an informed decision.
The oven and hob don’t arrive until Wednesday so I haven’t left this until the last moment and got in a panic.
Your help has been much appreciated. Thank you.
P.S. I’ve bought one of these (not from this store but it’s an easy link!) in anticipation of needing it to go onto the cooker circuit board.
I am also making sure that the electricians who are quoting do plan on doing what Dave proposes i.e. putting the oven onto the cooker circuit.
The advice here has been really helpful. Thank you Dave, it has helped a lot and is much appreciated.
Just a little more help and advice if possible please.
I asked the electrician who quoted what his plan would be, such as whether he would be putting it onto the cooker circuit or keeping it on the sockets circuit. Initially he said
‘I understand your request but, i am unable to respond as the process Involves me writing a very detailed email, but be assured that I work to BS 7671: 2018 registered body NAPIT (31511). If you require any explanation I am happy to do so whilst I am undertaking the works’
I really understand that it takes time to reply to quotes, so I do understand his stance but I really feel it important to know what the plan is so I can buy the right items such as the fuse plate etc and know what the plan is.
I explained that and he then said:
’20amp dp cooker switch required for oven, 45a dp required for cooker. Unable to advise on cable as would need to see cooker and oven manual for cable size.
What I am expecting is the current cable is of adequate current carrying capacity required for new oven, if not then upgraded cable would be required and that would increase the installation price, but price quoted is for connection of the oven and hob assuming no rewiring or changing of MCB is needed. ‘
Does this seem correct?
In your expert opinion would I be best off;A) sticking with the 16 Amp oven (which I love) and trusting this electrician
B) cancel 16 Amp oven and get a 13 Amp oven (still a good oven)think you may be complicating things a lot
the 40a cooker main is plenty to supply the oven and hob
you cannot keep the oven on the socket circuit as the spur box fuse is only 13a and the 16a load will overload it and you cannot connect the oven to a ring circuit without a fuse
they both need to be connected to the same switch so its pointless buying an extra switch which would just add more work and cause more damage to your decorations. having one switch for both is fine its no different than buying a slot in cooker that has hob and oven in one
Dave
electrofix wrote:think you may be complicating things a lot
the 40a cooker main is plenty to supply the oven and hob
you cannot keep the oven on the socket circuit as the spur box fuse is only 13a and the 16a load will overload it and you cannot connect the oven to a ring circuit without a fuse
they both need to be connected to the same switch so its pointless buying an extra switch which would just add more work and cause more damage to your decorations. having one switch for both is fine its no different than buying a slot in cooker that has hob and oven in one
Dave
Oh great, so the hob and oven can be put on the same 45A fuse switch? That makes life much easier. Lovely!
The electrician who came today said to put the 16A oven on the 13A fuse as the current one is 14A and it isn’t causing any issues.
I am rather confused but if the hob and oven can be combined onto the same fuse switch I understand the logic and I would feel comfortable with that.
So this is a qualified electrician who recommends connecting an appliance to a to a switch knowing that it will be overloaded. fuses get hot in use. usually not much heat but they can get quite warm near their rated current.. This is overloading the circuit by 25{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d}. if it was a circuit breaker and not a fuse it would definitely trip
Dave
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