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Hi all,
Hoping someone here can enlighten me as to what the issue is with my dishwasher. Here goes.
First noticed an issue with the plates etc not coming out clean. During the cycle I open the door to find the water was stone cold. Believing that the flow through heater required replacing, I ordered one.
Once the part arrived, i checked the Ohms reading on the new element, and compared the readings with the one that was fitted (once I’d taken the dishwasher apart). They were the same.
So I didn’t change the element, I looked for the temperature sensor. Which in this machine is a combined temperature and turbity sensor (had to google what a turbity sensor was/did). I couldn’t see anything wrong so I ordered one of those and returned the flow through heater.
When the temperature/turbity sensor came I again did a comparison with a Multimeter on both the old and new sensor. The only thing I found different was that the new sensor when measuring through the temperature sensor side was a few Ohms lower. The readings did change when I heated and cooled the sensor down. Fitted the new one and ran a “Auto” program. Stuck my temperature probe inside once the machine and started running for about 10 minutes and the temperature was reading 30 degrees. Thinking I’d fixed it, I put it all back together only to find in the evening the water was stone cold. 15 degrees through the whole cycle.
I then checked the wiring for continuity and shorts on the wiring from temperature/humidity sensor to control board- all ok, and wiring from heater to control board- all ok. I did take control board out and check for burns etc- nothing found. I did check all four relays on the board, one of them I replaced (not heater relay those were fine) showed a contact that was normally closed reading around 60ohms, even when I removed it from the board. I replaced it and started it up again. Again the same thing happened. Heated up to around 30 degrees then was stone cold thereafter.
So back to Google where I found a service manual which coveres my controller. I placed the machine in diagnostic mode, and accessed the last stored fault. (Just to mention here, there have been no faults coming up and the machine seems to run ok in all programmes just no heat and I dont have an LCD display to display the fault codes.) The end indicator light flashed 13 times with 13 beeps. The closest I found on line was that the control board requires replacing.
Well control board replaced. The machine when first switch on flashed all the lights on and when I closed the door seemed to run a test cycle. Once finished (around 20 minutes) I opened the door and was heat by a blast of hot air . Put all the dishwasher back together only to find it stone cold again when I tried to use it!!!!
If I put the machine into diagnostic mode and run a test cycle. The machine works the water is nice and hot but once I come out of diagnostic mode its back to stone cold. How can this be?
If I now run the diontistic mode and go to the stored alarm the end indicator flashes 13 times with a pause and the the rinse aid indicator flashes once. What does that mean or what fault code is it pertaining to?
Please can anyone offer any help? I’ve read that the float switch could be faulty preventing the heating from working? Is this true?
Sorry for the long post if you got that far.
Thank You
Eddie
your into the D codes (hexadecimal 13)
if no signal is received from the motor tachometer within 5 secs then heater is disabledsomething is stopping the motor from starting although it may be intermittent so just one of those things when it works on diagnostics possibly
Dave
Hi Dave,
Thank you for quick response.
Could the motor still run with out the Tacho as I think the motor is running on a normal cycle. Do you know if the Tacho is a replaceable item?
If the 13 flashes/beep of the “End indicator” indicates hexadecimal 13. What is the significance of the “Rinse aid” led flashing/beeping once shortly after the 13 other flashes.
Thank you for the info.
tacho can be seen at the back of the motor
https://www.directrepair.eu/circulation-motor-pump-140000397020-electrolux.html
Dave
Hi Dave,
Finally got around to removing the motor from the dishwasher. I can see the Tacho and it looks ok. I hot a ohms reading of 228. If I turn the motor it does go up and down. What should it be?
Thanks.
would have to look up the reading but the fact it has an output makes me think its probably ok
its all a bit odd this as you say it runs the test cycle and that should pick up any faulty components
Dave
Thanks for the quick response.
Perhaps I’m not using the diagnostic program correctly or misinterpreting the results.
The facts are-
Heater ok- element checked and thermostat checked. Got a reading through the thermostat and a reading of around 26 ohms for the element.
checked wiring to heater.Temperature/turbidity sensor replaced.
Control board replaced, as I read somewhere online that, that ment control board failure.
I could just bench test the motor to see if it works but I’m sure it is pumping the water around. The only thing about doing that is I have nothing to regulate the speed.
I do have a ohms reading through the wiring harness to the tacho as well.
Totally stumped now.
Checked the wiring from motor tacho connection from the plug back to the board, all ok. The only strange thing I found is that where the connector plugs into the control board this is shared with another connector and relay on the board. It is this relay that I replaced on my old board as it had around 6 ohms on the contact that should be closed and around 1.5M ohms on the contact that should be open. I removed relay from board and normally closed contact was still high in my opinion, and the other side wasn’t getting the reading of Open Circuit as I was expecting. So I replaced the relay and fitted all back together and the dishwasher was hot! When I used it for a second time in the evening it was cold, never heated. I’m at a loss. Should I replace the tacho sensor?
The old board and new board (which is fitted) are reading the same 1.5M ohm on the contact that is normally open and 0.01 on the normally closed contact on the relay in question.
Could the capacitor require replacing (old worn out) not letting motor to run at full speed, meaning the tacho sensor is not reaching the required level to allow heater to start?
Edward Rushton wrote:Could the capacitor require replacing (old worn out) not letting motor to run at full speed, meaning the tacho sensor is not reaching the required level to allow heater to start?
possibly and its not a dear component if its does not work
Dave
Checked this last night when I got in from work. 3 micro fared capacitor fitted, tested with a multimeter and got the 3 micro fares. So bang goes that theory.
I’ll bench test the heater, put a temperature probe on and see if its heating. If it is I’ll put it back together and make a fly lead to attach to the flow through heater connector, and connect my multimeter to it and run rinse a cycle to see if power is going to it during cycle. I’ll also clear the fault codes from the board prior to starting.
Do you know roughly when the heater should come on after the cycle starts?
If you have the correct resistance through the heater it should heat when powered. Please don’t run power to it there’s no need to do that and you’ll probably kill the heater.
Reading what you’ve written, you seem to have thrown an awful lot of parts at the machine but don’t seem to have checked the simpler things such as bad connections especially to the PCB or Damaged / faulty wiring especially in any door harness.Wiring has been checked between heater and board, turbity/temperature sensor and board, motor to board, tacho to board. All ok, no shorts to ground.
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