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Hi, I have a IKEA Valfri double oven pcn: 944171549-03 – It’s nearly 4 years old. In the last few weeks we noticed that the main oven was not heating up properly (more noticeable for higher temp settings). Also, stuff cooked in the top was not cooking properly; ie too slowly.
I guessed it may be an element issue and checked which ones in the main oven were getting warm. Btw, it has a single element in the bottom and a double (grill/oven) one in the top.
The bottom one worked fine (in “oven” mode) and the inner top one also worked fine (in “grill” mode).
The problem issue showed itself in “oven” mode, in that, the bottom element worked fine, BUT the top “oven” (1000w) element didn’t get warm at all – apart from the ambient heat which affected the “grill” element in the same way (ie hot to touch but not functioning).
I’ve just taken it apart and checked the resistances (with the leads off) which are as follows:
1. Working top element (1900w) – 40 ohms
2. Non-working top element (1000w) – 60 ohms
3. Resistance between the two + terminals (ie both elements in series – 90 ohmsI’ m not sure how to proceed. I’m guessing I need to trace back to the multi-switch to check for voltage BUT I have little experience so I wanted to ask before reinventing the wheel.
Many thanks.
Mike
Ps I just checked that there is 240v at the switch and both the element terminals; and there is.
I guessing that the assumption must be that the element has failed in spite of the 60 ohm reading???
It does get used an awful lot, any ideas.
Thanks
Hi: We never encourage Live testing of appliances, it’s extremely dangerous. However as you’ve already done it, do you mean that you put your meter across the element terminals with the element connected and got 240v ?.
Hi, understood, thank you! I simply used an “electric screwdriver” tester.
Since it all “seems” ok, I tried firing it up again and it didn’t have a problem reaching 275 deg C, which is its max.
Puzzling?? I did notice and error code UH43 come up when I restarted it but I couldn’t find out what that meant.
Is it possible that the thermostat is a problem? Does it need cleaning? When tracing its “wire” back to it’s temp control dial thing I noticed that where it was not insulated was touching the top oven’s (also bare) thermostat “wire”. Not sure how this works; could it be an issue?
Many thanks for responding; we have good friends for dinner on Sunday so….:)
Hi Mike: The 2 wires should be separated really, if your Neon screwdriver lit up on both Element terminals then that would indicate that the problem was a loss of Neutral to the Element. This could be due to bad connections but is more often due to a faulty selector switch, you may be able to see some burning marks on the switch if you look at it carefully with a bright torch. The only cure for this would be replacement, Please make sure that the power is off Before checking.
Many thanks.
The dual element has combined neutrals and the grill element glows red so I know there is not a problem with the neutrals.
I am starting to wonder if I have jumped to a false conclusion that the element is not working. I think I was expecting it to be hotter than it is; having seen the “grill” element glow.
having cleaned the thermostat, which was really dirty, and separated the thermostat wires, I think I’ll do another benchmark test; i.e. Oven chips at the top of the oven to check for any improvement.
I did check the multi switch for burn marks as you mentioned but it all looks fine.
Many thanks again for responding so promptly, I will report back in due course.
Hi Mike: If as you said earlier your tester lights up on both sides of the element, the neutral to the element has to be missing. Otherwise the tester could only light on 1 side, one question: Are you sure you checked both sides of the same element ?.
Oh sorry, I should have been more specific. I didn’t test the neutral with the tester, I was satisfied that it was ok because the “grill” portion of the element worked fine (glowing red) AND the neutral terminals on both portions are jumped together and fed with a single neutral wire from the multi-switch.
Ok no probs, if you still have it apart then you could check for any loose connections or alternatively keep using it and see what happens. Good luck with it.
Sorry it’s taken so long to feedback. Just cooked roast potatoes (our benchmark) for the first time since when they wouldn’t cook at 275c. All good now.
Not really sure what did it as I didn’t change any parts, simply cleaned the thermostat and the elements themselves. Hard to imagine it was the stat as surely a dirty one would read low (being insulated by dirt) and force a higher temperature.
One issue we did notice was that we had started leaving a large drip tray in the bottom of the oven; to catch melting pizza 🙂
I compared the oven’s performance with and without this tray and found that, to heat the oven to 200c, it took 15 mins with the tray and around 10 mins without it. I guess this may have been a factor in cooking a large roast dinner requiring high temperatures.Thanks so much for holding my hand and walking me through the whole process; so helpful!
Hi Mike: Your more than welcome, thanks for letting us know what happened. It could possibly have been due to bad connections, wouldn’t be the first time this has happened.
A Multimeter or 2 pole tester would have made your testing easier, Anyway I’m glad that you seem to have it sorted now.
Have a good Christmas: Andy
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