Indesit IN265A1UK Built in Fridge Freezer getting too cold

Handyal1948 wrote:Hi, My Indesit INC265A1UK built in Fridge/Freezer (non frost free type and about 12 years old) has started getting too cold – fridge compartment gets to zero deg C and freezer goes as low as minus 28 deg C. It seems to be running a lot too despite the themostat in the fridge compartment being on 1 – the lowest setting next to off. I replaced the thermostat in the fridge compartment thinking that this would cure the problem and it hasn’t.
I can get the compressor to stop by turning the thermostat to off and the fridge compartment returns normal 4-5 deg C. Once the dial is returned to the lowest setting, and once restarted, the compressor runs on again.
I have read other posts here and there is talk of a thermistor issue?
I’m thinking that this would be a bridge too far for me given availability issues and that it isnt easy to get the fridge/freezer unit out of the housing?
Any advice would be gratefully received.

I cant find anything on that model number, not even a photo of the unit, i take it the unit has no digital display on it to let you know whats happening? does the compressor ever turn off when the thermostat is set at 1? or does it just continue to run?

If the comp continues to run constantly you it sounds very much like a thermistor issue, being that i cant find any info on the unit i cant really advise you the best way to access the probe, it all depends on how far your willing to go before you decide to get a new unit, from my point of view the unit is 12 years old i would just get a new unit. In my line of work we usually say 10-15 years on a unit is brilliant but then the cost of repair will start to outweigh itself and we tell our customers its more cost effective to replace.

Handyal1948 wrote:Many thanks for your reply, it’s all electromechanical, the thermostat has a capillary tube which inserts into a tube in the top right of the unit and slides in around the back of the casing. It does not switch off even on 1, but if clicked off and then back to 1, it takes a while to restart and then rarely if ever stops again. In my mind the capillary is getting heat from the rear of the unit heat exchanger somehow and therefore isn’t working to the internal temperature?? Anyway, another blog suggested a temporary work around by using a 24 hour timer which I have done. It’s on for 30mins and off for 30mins daytime and on for 15mins and off for 45mins 11pm to 6am.
Temperature checks are now normal day and night 4-6’C fridge and minus 20-24’C freezer. So it’s a fix for now. I’m also providing better cabinet cool air at the cabinet base for ventilation as there has been none apart from the gap behind the cabinet since it was installed. Hope the thread will help others to make decisions

That is fine for now but you may end up damaging the compressor with keep killing the power to it as it will never pump down properly, it depends on how electrical technical you are as i can tell you how to wire in a new thermostat which will in turn become the main controller which will cycle the unit as designed and also stop the comp from short cycling.

a normal fridge will run the comp down to set point and then usually set for a 2c diff meaning if the comp shuts down at 2c it will pump down and shut off then when the temp gets up to 4c it will then start the comp back up.

With regards to the timer it will run for 30mins regardless of what temp it is and then instantly kill the power leaving liquid refrigerant in the evap, then on start up again it will pull the liquid back to the comp and repeat.

If you want to go for the timer option still i would advise trying to replicate a normal working i.e shut the comp off and keep a thermocouple inside with a display outside, when the temp gets to 4 or 5 then start the comp again and time it to get to set point, you may find it only needs to run for 30mins in the day and then can shut off for an hour.