- This topic has 17 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 8 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hi,
I’m hoping someone here can help me work out my next step in trying to rectify the common ice build up problem.
A few weeks back, I heard the tell tale fan noise and a few days later, the fridge wasn’t dispensing water or cooling properly.
I defrosted it, so I could dismantle and check for faults, following the excellent guide here. Having determined that the thermal fuse, defrost heaters and defrost sensor were all functioning correctly (correct resistances, and I checked that the resistance was changing correctly as I cooled the defrost sensor), I ordered the new evaporator cover and put it all back together. It had frosted up again a week later, by which time I had the new cover. Having defrosted again and put that in, I hoped all would be ok. It was, for about a week. It’s now frosted up again, so I’m wondering what to try next. The fridge isn’t showing any error codes and the ice build up is mainly around the top behind the evaporator cover.
Would be grateful for any advice as to what I should do next.Many thanks for the reply, Dave
Have looked around the seal, and it all looks intact. There are no obvious breaks in it and I can feel a little resistance on opening the door, so think it’s sealing ok.
The fridge must be around 13 years old by now, and I’ve never changed the gasket though. Could that really cause so much icing that quickly – and is there a way to test it? Feeling around it, it does seem to be tight up against the fridge. There isn’t a great deal of resistance to pulling it open, so I could replace it and see if that helps. Although without a good way of testing it, is that just throwing good money after bad?well moisture has to get in somehow to build up that quickly
so either the door is open and closed a lot or the seal is letting in moisture somehow. it will be a visible gap if you find it
Dave
That makes sense. I’d wondered if there was a leak somewhere, but couldn’t find a potential culprit.
My wife thinks the door used to offer much more resistance to opening, so will try changing the seal next.
Two hungry children do spend a good amount of time looking for something to eat, which may also play a part in letting moisture in!So, have replaced the door seal. I think it’s sealing a little better, but after running ok for a week, the fridge has frosted up again and isn’t keeping cool. I’m thinking that my next step is to completely defrost it, remove the evaporator cover, dry it all thoroughly and put it back together. Am I being a bit hopeful and is there something else I should check?
Would calling an engineer out be throwing good money after bad, and is it time to give up and get a new one?
Grateful for any advice.
LaurenceThere was a re-designed evaporater cover with better sensors from what im told , perhaps you could try that ? Just scrapped my samsung because of the same fault and numerous visits , gave up in the end as fixes would only last 1 year max and then become faculty again , bad design im told.
I’ve bought the new evaporator cover and replaced the door seal, but no improvement. Think I’m going to completely defrost and give it one more go. Then give up and scrap it. Don’t want to go down the route of lots of expensive engineer visits that don’t solve it. Have had that with a few appliances.
So, not being one to give up…
I’ve put up with a fridge that kept things lukewarm for a few months and although it hasn’t kept food as cold as I’d like, I think the whole family’s immune system has probably benefited. Unfortunately, the freezer eventually failed too. So, I’ve defrosted (again) and removed the evaporator covers on fridge and freezer side. I discovered a tiny leak in the water bottle. Not sure if that caused the fridge problem in the first place, or if it’s a symptom of the whole thing icing up (which it had). In any case, I’ve replaced that with a new one.
The freezer is now showing a fan error. Before I buy a new one, so I can test it, please can anyone tell me what resistance I’m supposed to measure across it, and is it a 12V DC fan?
Hoping someone can help!Yes, I’m getting 1.1kOhms. Having pulled it apart, it’s labelled as 12VDC so have connected (red and black terminals) to supply and it’s not responding. I’m not sure whether it would without connecting the speed control (white) terminal, so not sure if I’ve proved it’s faulty.
what i am trying to work out is have they used a 3 phase motor as its becoming common on a lot of appliance
if its a 3 phase motor you will have 3 coils that measure the same. you have 3 connections say A B and C. you should get same reading A-B A-C and B-A
if its 3 phase the board supplies a 3 phase variable frequency supply to control the motor
also this fan should only run with door closed so if the door closed switch is faulty. does your unit tell you if the door is open ?
Dave
Oh, I see.
I’m getting 1.1kOhms across red and black and 27kOhms across white and red and about same across white and black.problem for me is i dont know whats normal on this unit and tech info for Samsung, unless your and agent is almost non existant
Dave
Ok, so I bought a new freezer fan, which arrived yesterday. Replaced it and so far, so good. Freezer cooled down much more quickly than it has recently and I had ice in my G+T for the first time in months. Fridge seems to be working too and it’s still dispensing water.
I’m wondering whether the failed fan in the freezer forced the compressor to run constantly so although the fridge evaporator fan would have switched off, the (bottom of the) fridge cooled too much, which is why the water bottle was freezing.
In any case, I’m hoping that’s finally fixed it.
Thanks for your helpful comments Dave – helped me stay determined and keep positive!
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.