IKEA Renlig DWT160 dishwasher not drying at end of cycle as well as it used to

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Viewing 9 posts - 1 through 9 (of 9 total)
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  • #98227
    sexton_mallard
    Participant

    Hi all, This machine is about 8 years old and performs well and has had a replacement sump in the past fitted by myself.

    Recently we have noticed the washing has been wet and warm whereas it has been piping hot at the end of the cycle.

    1. The machine has been powered off at the wall and back on again.
    2. powering on and pressing the cancel button for 5s makes the program end light (right hand arrow symbol like a ->| ) flash 7 times.
    3. I assume there is a seperate heater for drying. As it is not visible in the base of the tub I assume it is contact bonded to the tub. I am suspecting a controller or thermostat/sensor fault as the the washing is still getting heated but not as hot as before. The machine performs fine in all other respects and the water is being heated as normal on the wash rinse cycles.

    #471434
    electrofix
    Moderator

    there is only 1 heater

    are you sure its getting hot ?

    have you got it plumbed into hot water and that is where the heat is coming from

    Dave

    #471435
    sexton_mallard
    Participant

    Hi Dave, It’s on hot water fill which explains the heat. I take it the fault code of 7 flashes also indicates a failed heater? I will dig the machine out and check. Many thanks.

    #471436
    sexton_mallard
    Participant

    I finally got a chanceto investigate and the heater (an inline barrel type) tests OK on a multimeter. I then traced the wiring back to a pressure switch which also tested fine and the hose back to the sump were clear of muck and tested the pressure switch which worked fine with a meter, blowing into the tube. I then removed the door cover ansd reseated all the plugs to the control module. I shut down the CH boiler to stop hot water and the machine worked fine on 70C… result…or so I thought. Upon running another wash, the heater did not come on. Perhaps there is an intermittent break in the heater. Is the temperature sensor the small black device snapped into the sump as viewed from the front? Could a faulty sensor prevent the heater coming on altogether? Thanks in advance.

    #471437
    sexton_mallard
    Participant

    I will try another program and monitor if power is being switched to the heater. (I work on TV and radio repair so I am aware of the risks). Also, what is the resistance range for the temp sensor, as I will test that as well with a heat source.

    #471438
    electrofix
    Moderator

    to be able to look it up i will need more numbers off it

    think its possibly made by electrolux so it should have a pnc number

    Dave

    #471439
    sexton_mallard
    Participant

    Thanks Dave for your quick response. The PNC on the badge is 911989307/03, SN is 13840001, Type is 911D96-0L.

    #471440
    electrofix
    Moderator

    first you need to check the hoses to the pressure switches to make sure they are not blocked

    then you need to check pressure sw is operating when there is water in

    also then check wires from heater to control board as they can break in the door at the bottom

    Dave

    #471441
    sexton_mallard
    Participant

    Thanks for that useful info. After confirming the pressure switches, hoses and door wiring I discovered the heater came on when tapping the door near the ECU. I found dry joints on the board around a relay and now the problem appears to be solved.

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