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My Belling (FDW150) dishwasher completes a cycle but the water stays cold throughout the cycle. I have taken out the flow through heater unit and found both the element and thermostat (on the same unit) faulty. My question why both should be faulty at the same time?
I did the ohms test and the readings did not change. I could change the unit but I am wondering why both the heater and thermostat are faulty at the same time?
could see you getting that reading on a themostat but you are wrong about the heater
if it had that reading it would blow fuses
what scale are you using on th meter. you need a low ohms scale up to 200 ohms max
if you use a high scale it will look like a 0 ohms reading
Dave
I set the meter to 200ohms scale and in testing both the heater and thermostat there was no reading change (display stayed at 1 )
Rob Bell wrote:I set the meter to 200ohms scale and in testing both the heater and thermostat there was no reading change (display stayed at 1 )
AH so its not 0 ohms, The 1 means in this case its over 200 ohms as that is the highest this setting will allow which means the heater is faulty
now the thermostat may be a thermistor an not a stat so put meter on progressively higher scales and see if you get a reading
when you get a reading warm it with your fingers and see if it changes
Dave
I agree the heater is faulty and yes you may be right it could be a thermistor. Tested the thermistor, as you said, I tried all the ohms settings but the meter reading never changes, stays at value 1 (on the left hand side). I cannot put my fingers on the thermistor as the sensor is tucked in a recessed tube. So guess that means the thermistor is also faulty and strangely the same time as the faulty heater?
there is a possibility this may be your element
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/17476000005319-dishwasher-heating-elementcant find thermistor but when you ask shop to confirm the above ask about this
also they will need rest of numbers off unit something like 444444347
Dave
Thanks for the link that is the very element I want. I assumed the thermistor is on the side – it has two terminals (you can only see one in the photo) separated by black insulation tab.
that look more like a pressure switch that detects if the motor is running before turning on the heater
dave
I fitted a new heater (which has a new pressure switch) put it all back together but:
On running a program you can hear the water enter then you can hear the water inlet stop and then the soap dispenser catch open
but straight after the E4 error(flooding) alarm is sounded. Then the water is pumped out but program is stuck with E4 sounding. Looks like there is a water leak
somewhere that fills the bottom tray and quite a lot of water ends on the kitchen floor. I checked the heater rubber hoses and the new jubilee clips I fitted but
they look good and do no seem to leak. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact I had the dishwasher upside down.
Dear Dave, The water overflow (E4 error) was fixed by re-tightening the heater rubber hoses clips. Ran a dish wash program and the new heater worked ok (no E3 error), however a small leak appeared under the washer. After much thought my hunch was right – Initially ran the washer without any trays inserted, I inserted the top tray and this time the program completed with no leaks. Without the top tray the water ejected straight out onto the door (instead of into the spray arms) causing a small leak out the door seals. Thanks for your helpful advice it saved me forking hundreds on a new washer. – Rob
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