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- This topic has 14 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 1 month ago by
bert__.
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AuthorPosts
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February 24, 2021 at 12:06 pm #99196
bert__
ParticipantHi I wonder if anyone would kindly help me with the below issue.
My Beko BCFD173 fridge freezer has an issue where the fridge isn’t cooling but the freezer is working fine. I have tried changing the temperature from min to max and in between and you get the audio alert when setting to min and also max. I have found the temperature sensor on the inside of the fridge under a plastic grill and what I think to be a matching part on bekospares website (Beko BCFD173 Temperature Sensor : GLI31 Cable 270mm). Does this sensor sound the correct part to replace (it is only £10)? The compressor is currently running hot is this because it can’t regulate the fridge temperature?
My other issue is I can’t seem to see how to remove the side panel to access the plug on the other end of the sensor so I am tempted to cut and join safely in the fridge side. Is this a bad idea?
Hope someone can help.
Thanks
Bert
February 24, 2021 at 2:48 pm #475378electrofix
Moderatoryou can measure the resistance of the sensor
from what i can find it should be around 25k ant 5 degrees and 20k at 10 degrees
Dave
February 24, 2021 at 2:54 pm #475379bert__
ParticipantThanks Dave I have been reading about this test but didn’t know what the readings should be so thanks for posting.
Do you have any idea how to remove the side panel if this turns out to be the faulty part?
Thanks
Bert
February 24, 2021 at 3:03 pm #475380electrofix
Moderatorthey dont give a lot of info
Dave
February 24, 2021 at 4:24 pm #475381bert__
ParticipantThanks again Dave. Is this from some sort of service manual?
That only exposes the sensor. It seems the only way to test it is to remove the side panel and unplug from the board it is plugged into. Or am I missing a trick?
Thanks
Bert
February 24, 2021 at 7:01 pm #475382electrofix
Moderatoryou will need to test from the board
Dave
February 24, 2021 at 7:38 pm #475383bert__
ParticipantHi Dave,
Going by the length of cable on the part (270mm) I guess the board is behind the side panel. Is removing the whole metal side panel the only way to get to it? If so do you have a page like you posted above mention how to do this?
Thanks for all your help so far.
Bert
February 24, 2021 at 7:59 pm #475384electrofix
ModeratorFebruary 24, 2021 at 8:21 pm #475385bert__
ParticipantThanks Dave so that sensor goes all the way to that board? If so why is the spare part only 270mm doesn’t seem long enough. (https://www.bekospares.co.uk/fridge-freezer/bcfd173-7519520005/temperature-sensor-gli31-cable-270mm/product.pl?pid=1629730&path=634348&model_ref=11946611)
Thanks
Bert
February 24, 2021 at 8:40 pm #475386electrofix
Moderatoronly seems to be one sensor listed but does not say if it will replace them all
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/4344740185-beko-american-fridge-freezer-ice-maker-sensor
Dave
February 24, 2021 at 10:41 pm #475387Tony R
ParticipantNot a Beko expert, but having been a refrigeration Engineer for 48 years, If the compressor is hot and constantly running, then the sensors and PCB recognize the unit is not cold enough and causing compressor to run constantly, sounds like a loss of gas or a poorly pumping compressor.
February 25, 2021 at 8:16 am #475388tubafan
ParticipantIs this an air cooled fridge, as it could be a stuck air vane or iced-up duct causing the issue? If it’s the type where the rear wall cools it then I would agree with Tony R as the fridge should be really cold if the compressor is running constantly.
February 25, 2021 at 10:41 am #475389bert__
ParticipantThanks Tony and tubafan for your comments most appreciated.
I don’t know if it is air cooled but the back inside wall does get cold but not enough to make the whole fridge cold enough as the sides don’t feel cold.
I have decided to switch it off to let it settle down and if anything is iced up to let it melt. Will see if it improves.
February 25, 2021 at 2:47 pm #475390tubafan
ParticipantIf it has a drain at the back then it’s not air cooled and the rear wall should be getting cold enough to ice up. If it isn’t then it’s a refrigeration fault as per Tony R’s comment.
February 26, 2021 at 10:30 am #475391bert__
ParticipantI was unable to find the exact readings the sensor should run at but I have tested the sensor with the reading around 6.5K ohms in warm water and about 16.5K ohms in ice cold water. So looks like it is working fine. As I found a youtube video of one that looks very similar stating this is what I should be getting.
Sounds like as Tony stated it is a refrigeration fault. I just wanted to come back with an update and to thank again all that helped much appreciated.
Many Thanks
Bert
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